Don't buy the tires based solely on price.
Either the M&H's or the M&T's. They both hook without an issue.
Leave the Nitto's to the street driving crowd.
My Mustang will stay stock except for the Lund tune and cat back.
IMO installing the OPG and TG is not enough. I would also swap out the dampener at the same time.
Don't try to over think the simple things.
A drop of oil spread out onto the filter gasket will never hurt.
The worst thing that will happen is it will be easy to remove next time.:cool:
it's pretty simple to follow the NHRA rules.
Down to 11.50, anything goes.
Quicker will require the bar "IF" the car has been altered with more
than just a tire change.
If I show up at my local tracks and run quicker than 11.50, and it has a blower etc. I would expect to get bounced after...
A Go Pro mounted under the car would probably provide some valuable information. Unfortunately driveshafts are one of those unglamorous parts
often overlooked.
When I built my Fox bodied racer, I went with an aluminum Mark Williams driveshaft. $900 was a hard pill to swallow, but had over...
It would interest me to see this graph if the auto equipped car had say a Circle D torque converter thrown into the mix.
I would not expect to see more HP, but maybe the autp graph would tighten up closer to the manual.
What say the experts?
Have you had the car tuned yet? Or do what I did and downloaded a Lund tune withe the SCT X4. Noticeable torque "fee" improvement down low.
Tuners have the ability to manipulate throttle ramp up from idle to wide open
via the tune. Much like the JMS add on throttle enhancer.
In my case it...
No, not really.
Just what I've personally run into on my cars.
Main thing is to have as much tire contact as possible.
Your first few passes are info passes.
Look at the wear pattern. It should have a light feathering to it and even all the way across the face.
I think it's M/T...