Search results

I've been pretty happy with my factory active performance exhaust in sport mode...

You need to pressurize the system with an air compressor to check for leaks. There are Youtube videos you can watch on how to do it.

Get a tuner who knows what he's doing.

So don't get a 2018 heads, get some 2015-2017 heads, port them and get the benefit of flow and VVT without the hassle of trying to shoehorn the '18 spec in.

You can degree the cams for low end torque, you can degree the cams for high end power, or you can keep the VVT and get both...

Is this turbo? You want to lock the Ti-VCT to fixed cam? Do you care about spool or low end at all, because that's going to really hurt it.

Ok, let me put it another way. What makes you think they're better heads for your application? How do the benefits of these heads, which are designed for N/A (NOT boosted) direct injection (plus port), outweigh the costs of dealing with a high pressure fuel pump, new ECU, all the hassle...

I'm curious how the active exhaust in the '18 and later GT sounds in person. I've been concerned about the GT's having engine failures, so I think I'm going to stay away from an '18 or '19 until some kind of fix comes out from Ford.

Turned in my leased Ecoboost 50 years (manual trans) back in 2017, looking for a used GT ('15 to '17) right now. The main thing I didn't like about the Ecoboost was the awful sounding exhaust. I mean it's bad. It really wears on you how terrible it sounds, even compared to other turbo 4...

GM has kept the same bore spacing for their small block V8's since the original one in the 1950s.

I'll be nice. Can you give us insight into your cost vs benefit analysis ?

We would have to see actual datalogs to know. You can reduce knock sensor response and add timing. You can lean it out enough to deteriorate the cats faster (which some people don't care about, but this is tune only so maybe they do) or even overheat exhaust valves. Anything with direct...

Usually when they say "Crank HP" it's some calculated number from a chassis dyno with assumption of parasitic loss. I HIGHLY doubt they got this engine to run on an engine dyno, unless they got a special engine dyno calibration directly from Ford. You either have to trick the engine into...

We have zero data on this thing. As has already been pointed out, there's a lot you can learn just by doing a baseline and then flashing to the new tune. You could do a pull on the street, a chassis dyno, or a drag strip, and record parameters on the PCM. For all you know they desensitized...

If you're reducing restriction to make more power, that's one thing. If you're beating the crap out of the stock hardware to make the power then what is that doing for the owner of the vehicle?

The only way they did some "magic" DI tuning is if the stock injection timing and quantity is severely limited by emissions or oil dilution, or bore washing concerns. Better start changing your oil more frequently, and look for scuffing on the bores. Everything else is going to push components...

Somebody at Ford has an Excel spreadsheet somewhere on warranty claims for engine failures, we just don't have access to it. I do agree that people who modify their engine in any way (a stage 1 tune counts) are going to have a higher likelihood of breaking something among a population of 0 to...

A little background on the MAP vs MAF thing: The software inside the ECU uses a model of airflow that is based on measured pressures from several different sensors, including a manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP). This system is very complex to account for the variable valve timing...

talking about Dannyho

If the car is stock you should follow the owner's manual recommendations and use OEM parts. Again, if the car is stock. Checking the gap every 10k miles is unnecessary as well--again, IF your car is stock and you don't do anything very severe to it like actual racing on a race track (not an...