I'm a long time Denver area dweller, and I'm pretty sure the commentators HP loss estimate is out to lunch! Didn't he say 20 - 25 % at a mile high? That is roughly 4-5 % per 1000 feet of altitude. The percentage will vary slightly based on numerous factors but on average I think the accepted...
I love all the speculation.... all I see is a Euro spec GT with quad tip exhaust and a slightly butchered rear valance. The stance looks the same, there is no imediate visual evidence of any suspension changes. ....and who knows what the alphanumeric tape strips indicate. Keep it up though...
A few things to check or keep in mind...
1. Do a test drive on a bumpy road and listen for rattles, squeaks and squeals.
2. Make sure the tire preasure is correct.
3. Mak sure the lugs are torqued correctly, 150 ft/pnds not 100.
4. Open an close all doors, hood and trunk lid and check...
Three things:
1. Dual clutch electronically controlled manual trans, with paddle shifters.
2. Magnetic ride control.
3. Full length undertray to improve aerodynamics.
So I took my car in and showed the separation to the service writer... he took pictures and sent them to Ford for warranty approval. They gave approval the following day, and the dealership ordered the parts. They are now in and will be installed tomorrow. I'm pretty sure the issue is a...
If the traction control is on, and particularly if you have the TORSEN rear end, I'd keep my foot in it unless it's really wet; the system will likely correct and / or balance your torque distribution.
Has anyone else noticed the visors separating along the seam? Both of mine are showing very small openings. Its noticable because the outside is black while the inner padding is white. It apears the seam is glued or bonded vice sewn.
In the latest Road & Track the GT PP only managed 4.7 seconds 0-60... and 109 in the quarter mile, WTF? Or is it because the test was about the new Camaro SS and GM is paying the bills?
Although the quality and light weight, are good selling points, I'm sure the price will be prohibitive. Also, this design is too similar to many others that are already out there.... they should have gone for something a bit more unique.
Although the quality and light weight, are good selling points, I'm sure the price will be prohibitive. Also, this design is too similar to many others that are already out there.... they should have gone for something a bit more unique.
Make sure the lugs are all torqued to spec, 150 ft/lbs not 100. If the rotors are not too far gone the noises should stop in a week or so..... mine made the freight train noises, and when I checked the lug torque they were all around 100, I think the rotors were getting warped because of this...
I tend to agree with this assumption for the paint bubling (lack of adhesion, due to oxidation on the aluminum) more than the possibility of a gavanic reaction from dissimilar metals.
:thumbsup:
We'll be extremely lucky if they create a TSB for an interior rattle.... I fixed the majority of my rear panel rattles by putting felt pads on the body wherever the panel may touch, and by gluing weather stripping to the panel where the edged may touch the body. I still get an occasional...
I was sitting in my car the other day while it warmed up and I noticed the driver side mirror is slightly larger than the passenger side.... look at the bottom inside edge of the gray front piece on each the driver side is longer. Just to verify this I took measurements and it is bigger. Man...