Alignment after many upgrades

[CO5OTE]

Front camber -1.6 on both sides. It must be even on both sides

Caster +7.0(+/- .25). Must be the same on both sides

Front toe +.02 per side, total toe +.04, this is toe in

Rear camber -1.5 on both sides. It must be the same on both sides

Rear toe +0.15 per side total toe +0.30, this is toe in

Thrust angle must be zero.

-This is what I ended up getting from Steeda after telling them that I was confused as well. My upgrades are basically the same as yours. I don't have the Bumpsteer kit, but went with the roll center correcting Front control arms. Also helps eliminate bumpsteer. These specs came out great on my car. It's not real aggressive, but more so than stock. I'm not tracking my car so didn't need aggressive. When I brought the car home, I have to cross a twisty mountain road, (Think Tail of the dragon style road). Most of the turns are 25mph or less and I was easily at 2 times the speed and more and the car still had much more. My suspension now is at the point where my tires are the weak link, not the suspension. I honestly don't think you would be dissapointed with these specs I used unless you are tracking, then maybe you will want more aggressive, but your tires will suffer. Just a thought. Hope this helps.

Sponsored

 

[1MeanZ]

I don't have the Bumpsteer kit, but went with the roll center correcting Front control arms. Also helps eliminate bumpsteer.

So you are running the lower arms with the extended ball joints and you are NOT running the bump steer kit, you 100% have a mismatched combo. You have to run none or both, you can't run just the arms and no bump steer kit. Your new control arms and your tie rods are now swinging in different arcs and you will have more bumpsteer than stock guaranteed. See the link below, Steeda specifically recommends you run these arms WITH the bumpsteer kit. Just wanted to get the correct info out here.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4906-s550-lateral-links-extended-ball-joint

 

[CO5OTE]

Correct. I had this question for them as well. They said you will feel some bumpsteer without them, but it will almost go unnoticed, which is the case for me now. I will do these as well sometime this summer, I was just ready to get the alignment out of the way and pull the car out of storage since the weather was breaking.

 

[derklink]

Front camber -1.6 on both sides. It must be even on both sides

Caster +7.0(+/- .25). Must be the same on both sides

Front toe +.02 per side, total toe +.04, this is toe in

Rear camber -1.5 on both sides. It must be the same on both sides

Rear toe +0.15 per side total toe +0.30, this is toe in

Thrust angle must be zero.

-This is what I ended up getting from Steeda after telling them that I was confused as well. My upgrades are basically the same as yours. I don't have the Bumpsteer kit, but went with the roll center correcting Front control arms. Also helps eliminate bumpsteer. These specs came out great on my car. It's not real aggressive, but more so than stock. I'm not tracking my car so didn't need aggressive. When I brought the car home, I have to cross a twisty mountain road, (Think Tail of the dragon style road). Most of the turns are 25mph or less and I was easily at 2 times the speed and more and the car still had much more. My suspension now is at the point where my tires are the weak link, not the suspension. I honestly don't think you would be dissapointed with these specs I used unless you are tracking, then maybe you will want more aggressive, but your tires will suffer. Just a thought. Hope this helps.

Got the same alignment today and quite like it!

 

[Wookie107]

Why does camber need to be even on both sides? Isn’t it acceptable to live within the provided tolerances? I.e. front: -1.9L,-1.8R. Rear: -1.7L, -1.4R. What issues would these differences create?

 

[tdstuart]

Droped my subframe and then later installed new halfshafts with the subframe back up. Cars alignment was basically perfect with the specs of my last alignment.

Sponsored