Recent content by H1shawn1

Reading through this I'd really love to see a response from @BMR Tech, I'm running them now and had some issues due to 20×11.5 wheels and a performance orientated alignment. Switched back to a street alignment which seems to have fixed it, but it's a bummer knowing that I either need to swap...

Dude those types of things are the worst. There isn't a man alive who wrenches on their car that hasn't nearly had a heart attack because they overlooked the most basic thing.

They are unrelated, nothing about the hood latching is electrical. Most likely there is something you are missing that's impeding the hood. Take a break, and come back with a fresh eyes. Go over everything one more time, eventuality the issue will reveal itself.

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts after 9/1. Still Loving my setup and appreciate the guidance that threads like this one offered.

What you are seeing is most definitely the BMS doing it's thing, in your situation I probably wouldn't bother changing anything. If you have forscan it wouldn't be a bad idea to do a BMS reset, or you could ask for one that next time you are at your dealer.

So I went ahead and replugged my sensors in after disabling BMS in forscan and voltage remained unchanged in the mid 13s. I then went ahead and re-enabled BMS to do a battery reset in forscan, after doing so I immediately disabled BMS and am now seeing better voltage. Fluctuates between mid 14s...

Just pulled the sensors and seeing constant voltage at 13.7 for my two short trips since. Plan on using forscan to try disabling BMS as well. Kinda curious if it'll make a difference. My thought is it's possible that even with the sensors unplugged to computer may be stepping in just a bit...

If you have a buddy that can help and the proper tools you'll be fine. If you decide to do it please add to this thread to help the next guy. You can do it solo as well, but few things better then having a second set of hands when you need it. Like any other job having the right tools is...

This would have been great to know beforehand, thanks a ton for sharing hopefully it helps the next guy.

These springs are easy with the 19x11 wheels, 32mm backspacing plus greater then 2 degrees of camber and you are good to go (will require camber bolts). Running a 285 or 295 tire with that backspacing shouldn't give you any problems. Before the SP083s I ran 1.5 front drop springs without issue...

I really enjoy following @BmacIL 's build log, it's a great resource for anyone who is curious about the benefits of each particular part. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bmacils-guard-gt-build.36260/

It's quiet. I'm catless with muffler deletes so my car is rather loud, and minimizing noise isn't a concern of mine but as far as I can tell there has been no added noise since the changes.

I just want to be very clear here, I was not saying that the s007a was on par with the MPSS in the rain, just that I had more confidence with the upgraded suspension and the s007a 's in the rain then I ever did on the stock suspension with the MPSS. I think this says a lot about how the s007a...

First 500 miles update: In the original post I mentioned that it was exhausting trying to compare how the car felt over bumps from before the upgrade to post upgrade, SO I'm happy to report that I'm finally past it. To put it simply the car now just feels like it ought to. High speeds are...

I do not have a PP, so non torsen. I'm a 3.55 auto GT. I'd be curious to feel the difference between mine and yours with the cb762 installed on mine. I'll also be watching closely your experience with the torsen upgrade, as I'm curious if I'd notice any benefit from it as well.