Procharger Stage 2 Installed, Tuning Questions

Dominant1 said:

Are you guys using remote tunes or are these dyno tunes!

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remote tuning it

Tommy V said:

I could not get the filed pulled up at work,are the fuel trims adding fuel or taking fuel away.Does not sound tune related to me,i would check all connections,check injector connections and see what boost your making.

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the fuel trims are +/- about 1% at WOT. driving around there is still a 10% swing down low i need to smooth out.

this looks maechanical. is a huge amount of knock that has come out of nowhere and is only in a certain lower rpm range. that is why the short pull on the street the timing is good as its past this weird "area" i think something is loose and/or rattling.

Hey Guys

I thought this might be helpful, this is an older log file from a previous tune.

http://datazap.me/u/davepurp/log-1493061298?log=0&data=6-8-15

http://datazap.me/u/davepurp/log-1493061503?log=0&data=6-8-9-10-11-12-15

Give or take a week or two ago

I will finish my Mechanical boost gauge install today and let you know what boost it is totaling and ill go over everything to find out whats going on.

Davepurp said:

Matt
Thanks for getting back to me as always. Looking over all my other logs this did seem to come out of no where and trying to go back and think what have I dont other than drive the car and the UPR Catch Can setup went on right around the time of the knock getting much worse. Any chance this could be the culprit?

I did increase belt tension, but I will go back and see if it should be tightened up a little more

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Check over the catch can that it's not touching anything, or the hoses. But since the UPR is bolted to the chassis it shouldn't cause any issue. If it was one of the ones just dangling by the hoses would be a different story.

Coincidence with adding new parts and developing a new problem isn't a coincidence.

I will go over the whole car and see whats causing this knock

Mechanical gauge shows 10.2 psi at 7krpm

http://datazap.me/u/davepurp/log-1493068832?log=1&data=6-8-15

I had an issue with false knock and was ready to set the car on fire and start fresh... It ended up the exhaust as the axleback portion would touch the rear sway at WOT ever so slightly...this showed up a few months after tune etc... Check everything especially exhaust and exhaust clamps + piping. Fixed it and was running at 100% a few minutes later...Thought I would add my 2c...

I am in the same boat, street logs are fine, dyno shows false knock. I'm in the process of going over everything

Crank everything down under the hood, all the exhaust, catch can and some various mount and it seemed to show improvement and get me into a range that is almost respectable ( assuming I am looking at the knock correctly) still shows knock here and there so I may have missed something, but again I have no faith in this winterblend

As for Fuel Terms I have absolutely no clue what to look for so whoever can shine a light on that would be greatly appreciated

http://www.datazap.me/u/davepurp/log-1493073480?log=1&data=6-8-14-15

http://www.datazap.me/u/davepurp/log-1493073480?log=0&data=6-8-14-15

diablomatt said:

remote tuning it




the fuel trims are +/- about 1% at WOT. driving around there is still a 10% swing down low i need to smooth out.

this looks maechanical. is a huge amount of knock that has come out of nowhere and is only in a certain lower rpm range. that is why the short pull on the street the timing is good as its past this weird "area" i think something is loose and/or rattling.

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1% at wot is good!!!.Im in the same boat as u and feel that somethings hitting and causing the knock,but would that cause the swing in fuel trims like that??

I spoke with adam at rev auto a while back and he told me that reason why they dont remote tune boosted cars is that its a less perfect tune then what dyno tune can provide. He tuned my old paxton gt (2012) it took him all day and I waited all day there at the shop till it was done and it as perfect! I took it back to them months later for a beefcake torque booster and tune revision and that was perfect also. For me the only way i would do a remote tune is after it was already dyno tuned and i wanted an adjustment. Which is what i did with my current car and the adjustment was shift points. And my car is perfect now!

I dont buy that dyno crap one bit,the tuner looks at the same data weather it be on a dyno or on a street data log.Sure its nice to have your tuner their with your car because he is only working on your tune and u pay extra for that.If u work with your tuner and get him the logs he wants 90 % of the time the tune will be dialed in.The tunes that do have issues im willing to bet 90% of the time its an install error or something mechanical on the car is wrong.

you cant do drivability through the mail as effectively as the car being there. Adam spent 2 hours after the tune was dialed in hp/torque wise so it drove perfectly in every situation!

Ok so that was not on the dyno then,i agree with that.Having a tuner street log your car is the best way to get the drivabilty dialed in,but your not going to get drivabilty dialed in tryin to tune on the dyno.Wot tuning is nice on the dyno because it is safe.Its just my opinion that if u work with your tuner u can get drivabilty dialed in doing data logs remotely,might take a little longer but it can be done.

Dominant1 said:

you cant do drivability through the mail as effectively as the car being there. Adam spent 2 hours after the tune was dialed in hp/torque wise so it drove perfectly in every situation!

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Tommy V said:

Ok so that was not on the dyno then,i agree with that.Having a tuner street log your car is the best way to get the drivabilty dialed in,but your not going to get drivabilty dialed in tryin to tune on the dyno.Wot tuning is nice on the dyno because it is safe.Its just my opinion that if u work with your tuner u can get drivabilty dialed in doing data logs remotely,might take a little longer but it can be done.

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you guys are actually both right. this is where the experience of a tuner helps. if its a NEW combo or a new problem that the tuner has not seen, then it can be a real bitch to remote tune the drivability. NOTHING is the same as sitting in the seat of a car and SEEING and FEELING what is doing. take the 15 procharger when they first came out. i could NOT get certain ones to stop surging. prochager and i both battled this. it took me getting a local car that did it and sitting down and figuring it out for several hours. NOW if a car does it, i can fix it remotely. cause i have done it before. so its double edged sword, a local dyno tuner that doesn't know what hes doing can be worse then a remote tuner that does. and inversely a GOOD local tuner CAN be more effective than a remote tuner. its just all depends on the "local tuner" and his experience and abilitly.

diablomatt said:

you guys are actually both right. this is where the experience of a tuner helps. if its a NEW combo or a new problem that the tuner has not seen, then it can be a real bitch to remote tune the drivability. NOTHING is the same as sitting in the seat of a car and SEEING and FEELING what is doing. take the 15 procharger when they first came out. i could NOT get certain ones to stop surging. prochager and i both battled this. it took me getting a local car that did it and sitting down and figuring it out for several hours. NOW if a car does it, i can fix it remotely. cause i have done it before. so its double edged sword, a local dyno tuner that doesn't know what hes doing can be worse then a remote tuner that does. and inversely a GOOD local tuner CAN be more effective than a remote tuner. its just all depends on the "local tuner" and his experience and abilitly.

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Exactly why I went with Matt, I am more comfortable with a tuner who knows the S550 Platform, knows the power adders, and knows what changes need to be made.

With Matt I can tell him what I am experiencing in the drive, log it and he will adjust for it in a revision before I even have a chance to get back in the car again because he knows all the quirks.

With a dyno shop all of your tunes could be experimental and any changes you will need require you to book a time get the car there run it( or atleast around here anyway), simulate the issue, attempt to fix and if it doesnt work youre back at square one.

If you are lucky enough to live in proximity to someone with a dyno that knows an S550 well enough I guess thats another story

One thing a dyno gives you that data logging does not is and actual power/ torque figure so you know if the change you made is better or worst.

The logs you are posting seem to have lean spikes on tip in. This is a transient fueling issue. Could cause it to be prone to knock. Also 15* of knock advance is excessive.