If you were to go road racing....

hmperf · Sep 25, 2017

If you were to build a 5.0 (gen 2 coyote) to go road racing, to be absolutely thrashed every weekend, what would you do to it to make it last?

Cant change rotating assembly but can get away with other things. Off hand I can only think of oil pump gear and chain tensioners. Id do extra cooling for it too. but what else is the weak spot?

Im talking just motor, not clutch/tranny etc.

Rdot9 · Sep 25, 2017

Probably all of this... lol
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81848

EFI · Sep 25, 2017

Oil cooler, ATI balancer, high quality oil/fuel and let it rip.

Maybe an accusump or oil pan upgrade if you've got slicks and full suspension.

Eritas · Sep 25, 2017

What's your experience? What tires are you running? A stock GTPP holds up pretty well to track use with no glaring issues. I'd look into an aftermarket oil cooler.

Kahboom · Sep 25, 2017

170 degree Reische thermostat, bigger radiator, better oil pan pick up and or larger capacity oil pan, engine oil cooler, transmission cooler, differential cooler, if a manuel better shifter, stiffer engine mounts, transmission insert, rear IRS suspension parts to stiffen up the rear, better shocks and springs, upgraded pads and rotors, separate set of tires and rims specifically for the track, as far as the front of the motor primary and secondary chain tensioners either that of the Boss 302 or the new ones that MMR makes, MMR chain glides, MMR secondary chain tensioner, upgraded oil pump gear, upgraded chain timing gear, upgraded crank pulley.

texasboy21 · Sep 25, 2017

Just drive it until issues arise. A stock GT PP does quite well in stock form.

Until the driver mod surpasses the car's capabilities just focus on seat time.

Eritas · Sep 25, 2017

texasboy21 said:
Just drive it until issues arise. A stock GT PP does quite well in stock form.

Until the driver mod surpasses the car's capabilities just focus on seat time.

Agreed. Kahboom's mod list is completely unnecessary, especially the lower thermostat.

Kahboom · Sep 25, 2017

You should probably read the OPs comments in the top. There has been more than one instance on many people who have tracked their cars and it went into limp mode due to engine overheating or rear differential overheating. And like the first post it says if you were to build one what would you do.

Eritas · Sep 25, 2017

I'll agree to some of that, however the thermostat, shifter, motor and trans mounts aren't necessary. Let's see where his experience is first before going overboard on the mod recommendations. I agree in the hands of a reasonably experienced driver on a hot day, engine oil, trans, and diff coolers would be a good idea for long sessions.

Kahboom · Sep 25, 2017

If he has a manual transmission it would be ideal to replace the shifter for track use one that it is either mounted to the transmission to avoid misshifts, MT82 is famous for loosing gears due to the sloppy shifter bushing and assembly, he could issolate the movement by getting a firmer shifter bushing which is less then 20.00. Further issolating movement would be transmission bushing or mount, as well as motor mounts for better shifts as well as reduced risk of misshifts and loosing a gear. Manuel cars come with a iron carrier for the rear diff which does not work well for track use, aluminum carrier is only on auto cars.

Kahboom · Sep 25, 2017

Depends on the climate or extended use for a thermostat, he is going to track a car. My personal temps before were 240-260 degrees for cylinder head Temps kicked limp mode in less then 20 minutes of track use, only replaced thermostat and now stays under 205 degress when running 30 minutes.

Eritas · Sep 26, 2017

Kahboom said:
If he has a manual transmission it would be ideal to replace the shifter for track use one that it is either mounted to the transmission to avoid misshifts, MT82 is famous for loosing gears due to the sloppy shifter bushing and assembly, he could issolate the movement by getting a firmer shifter bushing which is less then 20.00. Further issolating movement would be transmission bushing or mount, as well as motor mounts for better shifts as well as reduced risk of misshifts and loosing a gear. Manuel cars come with a iron carrier for the rear diff which does not work well for track use, aluminum carrier is only on auto cars.

I don't think there's an issue with the stock shifter but to each their own. While the aluminum automatic diff housings are lighter, I wouldn't swap out the stronger cast iron one, which is heavier where you want it -down low and on the rear of the car.

Kahboom said:
Depends on the climate or extended use for a thermostat, he is going to track a car. My personal temps before were 240-260 degrees for cylinder head Temps kicked limp mode in less then 20 minutes of track use, only replaced thermostat and now stays under 205 degress when running 30 minutes.

A stock and 170*F thermostat are both fully open at 240-260*F cht, so there is no difference in cooling between them at those temps. There's no way you'll get a 35-55*F delta when both stats are open due to a static 40*F cooler thermostat. They don't work that way. You must have changed something substantial at the same time to see those kind of changes in peak temps.

Kahboom · Sep 26, 2017

The only thing I changed was the thermostat and had a retune to change the fans to come on sooner, not only did the fans come on sooner but the 170 degree thermostat fully opens much sooner then the standard stock thermostat. they have multiple people who have dumped the Evenflo 160 degrees thermostat and switched over to the Reische 170 degree thermostat because it works far better then the 160. I myself was extremely skeptical of the thermostat until I tried it. As far as iron diff it does not shed heat very well at all and I do agree I would not change it out for a little bit of one and sadly since it's not shared or a one piece axle that actually there's also no diff cover that has fins on so the only option his to buy a cooler with a pump. And since the pump is so expensive I opted just to buy 75w 140 gear oil and just swap it every time after track use for now. Once I have the additional funds I'll buy the pump and the radiator for the diff if my car was solely a track car I will purchase one.

sonicc · Sep 26, 2017

We have a pretty sweet section on this forum dedicated to Road Racing/HPDE stuff with some very knowledgeable and experienced people, I'd visit that first

If we're talking strictly about engine longevity (ignoring transmission and rear diff for now), I'd say some high quality oil (like Amsoil), oil cooler, upgraded radiator (like the Mishimoto), oil pump gear, and possibly chain tensioners.

By the time you add all the costs for these upgrades you might realize that it's probably just cheaper to get an older BMW or something and have that as a dedicated track/race car.

Eritas · Sep 26, 2017

Kahboom said:
The only thing I changed was the thermostat and had a retune to change the fans to come on sooner, not only did the fans come on sooner but the 170 degree thermostat fully opens much sooner then the standard stock thermostat. they have multiple people who have dumped the Evenflo 160 degrees thermostat and switched over to the Reische 170 degree thermostat because it works far better then the 160. I myself was extremely skeptical of the thermostat until I tried it. As far as iron diff it does not shed heat very well at all and I do agree I would not change it out for a little bit of one and sadly since it's not shared or a one piece axle that actually there's also no diff cover that has fins on so the only option his to buy a cooler with a pump. And since the pump is so expensive I opted just to buy 75w 140 gear oil and just swap it every time after track use for now. Once I have the additional funds I'll buy the pump and the radiator for the diff if my car was solely a track car I will purchase one.

A lower thermostat will not make the car cool any better than stock when both circuits are open. All a lower stat does is open sooner. It doesn't magically improve the cooling ability of the radiator.

An aluminum diff housing will have virtually no effect on the cooling ability of the diff vs an iron one.

If you were to go road racing....

hmperf

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Rdot9

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EFI

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Eritas

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Kahboom

Kahboom

texasboy21

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Eritas

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Kahboom

Kahboom

Eritas

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Kahboom

Kahboom

Kahboom

Kahboom

Eritas

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Kahboom

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sonicc

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Eritas

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