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How do you avoid water spots when working outside?

SVT-DADDY

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Waterless is great if the car isn't too dirty. I don't have a garage so sometimes that's out of reach for me.

First and foremost get the car coated. I used CQuartz, what a difference.

Do the panels in the sun last. Keep them wet until your ready to dry.

I use Carpro Reload on the wet panels as a drying aid. I just ordered Echo2 and I am going to be trying that soon.
 

PatrickGT

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I don't understand dampening the drying towel. The biggest issue is a wet drying towel! It leaves nothing but streaks
Well, I did explain it. You want it *DAMP*, not *WET*. WET will leave streaks, DAMP will absorb the spots while rehydrating the minerals that are being left behind and creating hard water spots. You also need a proper drying towel devoid of fabric softeners, etc. I recommend a waffle weave microfiber drying towel that is properly washed and treated.

This is precisely why Quick Detailer/Spray Wax products exist, only you can actually use water instead of a $14 bottle of spray.

All of this is entirely up to you, you can choose to follow what you want... but if you do care to combat the advice I'm giving please at least stick to the proper words and context because if there is one thing an ex-professional detailer living in the AZ desert is qualified to give advice on it would be drying a vehicle without water spots... like say when it is 121 degrees out like it was on Monday.
 
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GTP

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So I tried the waterless wash method twice in 3 days. Car was not very dirty both times.

First time
On Saturday, before a nearby C&C, I put 2 gallons water in one of my 5-gal wash buckets. That's 6" off the bottom of the bucket. Which means 1 gallon was below the grit guard, and one gallon above.

I wrung out half the water on my wash mitt, and wet down an area.
Sprayed the area with my bottle of favorite juice - EcoSmart waterless wash from CG.
Washed the area with the mitt again.
Then I dried it immediately with a big drying towel.

No water spots, car was clean, and very shiny.

I did not make a mixture of 2 gallons of EcoSmart because I thought that would use more product. The spray bottle and wet mitt method worked great and used less product.

Second time
It rained Monday at work, where I was out of town. The car was still wet when I got "home", so I decided to try the method again, but this time just using the rain water left on the car. This time I had no bucket, and no wash mitt.

The setting sun was already drying the car. I sprayed the wettest panel first, then wiped it directly with the drying towel. This so as to get the drying towel damp. Kept going around the car, ending up with the most dry panel. Method worked great again.

In conclusion, I will still use the soap foam gun (not cannon) on the hose for when the car is extra dirty. But the waterless wash method yields great results on a fairly clean car (like mine is usually - ask anyone, lol).
 
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jrsimon27

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I'm finding it absolutely impossible to avoid creating water spots when washing my car. I do not have the ability to wash my car indoors or in 100% shade.
After washing the car and then rinsing it, the heat always dries the water spots faster than I can blow them away with the leaf blower - so how the heck are you doing it?
Wash it at night
 

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But the waterless wash method yields great results on a fairly clean car
My black S197 isn't a DD and I don't intentionally drive it in the rain, although I've been caught by surprise a few times.

The key is keeping the car as spotless as possible at all times. Regular maintenance makes even a major detailing so much easier.

To be fair, I'm retired and have gobs of time. And despite a tight, 1 car garage, I can do all of my detailing inside. I understand not everyone has the luxury of not having to work and being able to clean a car under a roof.

My biggest problem is pollen and road dust, and a rinse less wash system is perfect for both conditions. I swear by it. I use it about once every 2-3 weeks, and in between it's maintained with detail spray several times a week. My neighbors think I'm nuts.
 

S550ilver

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After my final rinse, I do what is called "flooding"...running water from the hose over the car essentially using the water to pull the water off the car. There is just a little bit of water on the car after this, then I use my Master Blaster to finish it off.
 

15Pony

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You can try using some distilled vinegar, white vinegar and distilled water mix or a cleaner wax. If that doesnt take it off and its etched the paint, its going to need a compound/polish. Any of those will take of your wax/sealant, so it will need it be reapplied.
I tried the vinegar/water mix today and it did not help. Zaino Z6 makes it shiny and slick but spots are still there.

Is there a good quick detail spray that would work?
 

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Do this....then you are done....done...with water spots!!

Nope, had cquartz pro put on my car and never had more issues with water spots. Before that i did zaino and rarely had to do more than a QD cleanup even in the heat.
 

Souldriver

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Is Zaino Z6 a good detail spray to use for this?
With the zaino stuff it always helped me get off 90% of any water spots. Polishing anx using the quick detail again would leave it spotless .If you have heavy imbued watermarks thats totally different.

I used zaino but cquartzed my car this past month. I never had so many watermarks as i do with the cquartz, its frustrating and i spent 6 hours trying to get them out. I switched from zaino for ease of use but the zaino was easier to maintain and looked so much deeper after the main set up.
 

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Anyone have a recommendation for a quality drying cloth with good absorbing characteristics? I've tried microfiber towels from the auto stores, old cotton t-shirts, and even bought one of those expensive ass lamb skin (sheep skin?) things and they all suck at absorbing water when it comes time to dry the car. They just seem to move the water back and forth.:shrug:
 

Souldriver

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Does something like this help or is this just vaporware? http://www.autogeek.net/waterfilterkit2.html
Ill look into this. the only other option is the inline Griots but it's a joke. $150 for the set up and $120 for refills. Many are saying it lasts barely 10 washes. Some reviews also say it leaves sediment on the spray too.
Only other thing is ponying up $300 for the bigger systems and buying the resin.
 

NasaStang

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Anyone have a recommendation for a quality drying cloth with good absorbing characteristics? I've tried microfiber towels from the auto stores, old cotton t-shirts, and even bought one of those expensive ass lamb skin (sheep skin?) things and they all suck at absorbing water when it comes time to dry the car. They just seem to move the water back and forth.:shrug:
http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garage-pfm-drying-towel.html
or
http://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-ultra-plush-drying-towel.html
 

webelevy

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