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I'm done with the break squealing... need suggestions

FogcitySF

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Parts cleaner won't harm the brakes or components but it likely won't help much. The key is removing the pad deposits on the rotors, which in most cases, is the core issue.

What about some of that good old brake parts cleaner all over the rotors , calipers and pads, is that a bad idea ?
 
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altjx

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I've dealt with this issue time and time again on other vehicles. My GT350 currently does squeal and I plan on rectifying the issue when I switch over to the R calipers.

The simple solution is removing the pads and hardware from the calipers, cleaning them thoroughly, then when reinstalling, any part that makes contact with metal needs a thin layer of hi-temp bearing grease. Back of the pads, retaining clips on top etc. I've done this probably 10+ times to various vehicles and all my squealing problems vanished, never to return.
Had a friend remove all 4 brake pads, insert a few lines on the front and back edges of the pads and also sanded the rotors just very slightly. This seemed to work but about 50-100 miles later the noise came back and is just as bad now :(. I haven't tried the grease, but I'm more tempted now to just buy G-Loc pads.

Believe me, I feel your pain! I started a similar thread a few months ago on the same issue. Like you I had new pads and rotors installed but did not have success until my Ford service tech used a product called Sta-Lube SL3303 Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease. Placed an order through Amazon and keep it on hand for future applications. So far, so good! Most likely, will re-apply semi-annually to be on the safe side. Good luck!
Haven't tried the grease just yet, but I think I'm going to keep this noted somewhere and try out the G-Loc pads.

I have noticed the squealing stops for a while after i powerwash my wheels. As I power wash them a ton of brake dust blows out
Yeah same here. It goes away temporarily and then back again later down the road.

[MENTION=22413]Optimum Performance[/MENTION] so if I understand correctly, I can grab a set of your G-Loc pads and not have to worry about bedding them in? Also, the "street compound" and "track compound", I assume you're just referring to the pads right? If so, I'll be giving you a call first thing in the morning, unless someone here can help me place an order for exactly what I need tonight.
 

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European: "I don't care if the brakes squeal, so long as they stop the car."
American: "I don't care if the car stops, so long as the brakes don't squeal."
 
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altjx

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European: "I don't care if the brakes squeal, so long as they stop."
American: "I don't care if the car stops, so long as the brakes don't squeal."
I guess some of you don't mind sounding like a school bus at every red light and pulling up to car shows with one of the baddest rides.
 

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I have not read the whole thread, but perhaps this has not been suggested?

Two sources of the acoustic squeal are found with the vibrating backplate (hence the grease suggestion), and a high-frequency vibration at the trailing edges of the pads. Squealing can actually be an indicator that the pads are super flat to the rotors, which is why they usually don't vibrate when brand new.

You can try removing the upper bolt, and loosening the lower bolt, so that you can pivot the caliper down and away from the rotor. Then file a 45° bevel to the inside trailing edge of the pad, so that it does not "end" perpendicularly to the rotor. This has been known to kill the source of the vibration. What do you have to lose?
 
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I have not read the whole thread, but perhaps this has not been suggested?

Two sources of the acoustic squeal are found with the vibrating backplate (hence the grease suggestion), and a high-frequency vibration at the trailing edges of the pads. Squealing can actually be an indicator that the pads are super flat to the rotors, which is why they usually don't vibrate when brand new.

You can try removing the upper bolt, and loosening the lower bolt, so that you can pivot the caliper down and away from the rotor. Then file a 45° bevel to the inside trailing edge of the pad, so that it does not "end" perpendicularly to the rotor. This has been known to kill the source of the vibration. What do you have to lose?
Yep this is exactly what a friend did as well. The front weren't flat but the back were, but he ended up doing it a little more to the fronts and did it to the back. Also added some little slots on the edges. Seemed to work temporarily. I'm guessing my issue was just the bedding process. Not sure. I still may have to treat the grease method though.
 

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Had a friend remove all 4 brake pads, insert a few lines on the front and back edges of the pads and also sanded the rotors just very slightly. This seemed to work but about 50-100 miles later the noise came back and is just as bad now :(. I haven't tried the grease, but I'm more tempted now to just buy G-Loc pads.



Haven't tried the grease just yet, but I think I'm going to keep this noted somewhere and try out the G-Loc pads.



Yeah same here. It goes away temporarily and then back again later down the road.

[MENTION=22413]Optimum Performance[/MENTION] so if I understand correctly, I can grab a set of your G-Loc pads and not have to worry about bedding them in? Also, the "street compound" and "track compound", I assume you're just referring to the pads right? If so, I'll be giving you a call first thing in the morning, unless someone here can help me place an order for exactly what I need tonight.
For street use GS-1 compound, sand the rotors to remove OE pad material and you will still have very good braking with much lower noise. For track use most Customers just swap before the event and swap back, no bedding is required or recommended for GS-1 pads, the track pads are pre-bed. Compound selection depends on goals for the car. Most Customers have been happy with the R12/R10 for HPDE's unless they are going all out or running a dedicated track tire. You need to match the tire to the compound.
 
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For street use GS-1 compound, sand the rotors to remove OE pad material and you will still have very good braking with much lower noise. For track use most Customers just swap before the event and swap back, no bedding is required or recommended for GS-1 pads, the track pads are pre-bed. Compound selection depends on goals for the car. Most Customers have been happy with the R12/R10 for HPDE's unless they are going all out or running a dedicated track tire. You need to match the tire to the compound.
Hm sorry I'm pretty new to all of this. For clarification, are only the track pads pre-bed, or both the track and street pads?
 

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My brain hurts (been a hectic week) but typically G-LOC GS-1's do not get pre-bed because they do not require bedding of any kind. That said everything we order typically is automatically pre-bed.. but the GS-1's.
 

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My brain hurts (been a hectic week) but typically G-LOC GS-1's do not get pre-bed because they do not require bedding of any kind. That said everything we order typically is automatically pre-bed.. but the GS-1's.
Cool, sounds great. Sounds like I'll just be giving you a call tomorrow. I'm just going to be the one placing the order for whatever I need and having a friend do it. Much appreciated :)
 

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I made a thread about this be same issue. My '17 has less than 400 mi and the squeaky brakes SUCK!
 
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I made a thread about this be same issue. My '17 has less than 400 mi and the squeaky brakes SUCK!
Yep! I was ok with occasional and very light squealing, but this bus sounding brake squeal has got to go man :frusty:
 

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I went this route with new brake pads. At the time (October 2016) these were some of the few pads available. I have used these for about 2000 miles and the squealing is non-existent. Plenty of brake for the street and the dust level is way down. I am sure there are similar or maybe better available now but I have good luck with these.
IMG_1553.jpg
 
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altjx

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I went this route with new brake pads. At the time (October 2016) these were some of the few pads available. I have used these for about 2000 miles and the squealing is non-existent. Plenty of brake for the street and the dust level is way down. I am sure there are similar or maybe better available now but I have good luck with these.
Very interesting. Do you notice anything less in terms of brake performance by chance? And did you have to go through a bed in process with those?
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