UnhandledException
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- #271
435 miles now of which last 250 has been the old style of drivig. Oil level did not move even a mm, showing full
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Obviously no PCV valve in the system is the culprit. Try running the OEM valve in the valve cover with the UPR catch-can. The can itself isn't the problem.435 miles now of which last 250 has been the old style of drivig. Oil level did not move even a mm, showing full
^^is my setup and works fine. Still catches oil and consumption is 0.Obviously no PCV valve in the system is the culprit. Try running the OEM valve in the valve cover with the UPR catch-can. The can itself isn't the problem.
I'd run one ... helps keeps oil out of the intake manifold. You're just gun shy now. ;)I am not running any catch cans anymore.
What's the chances the catch can has enough restriction to change the effective spring rate of the PCV ?I'd run one ... helps keeps oil out of the intake manifold. You're just gun shy now. ;)
Yeah, UPR needs to know this ... taking the PCV valve out of the system isn't a good thing.
I agree, couldnt have said it better myself.What's the chances the catch can has enough restriction to change the effective spring rate of the PCV ?
It appears that OP was hoping to keep an ounce of oil out of the intake manifold and ended up sending quarts through the engine.
This is a $369 part, plus another $100 or so for the check valve and PCV delete. That money is probably better spent accelerating oil changes.
Just changed my oil on Saturday and added 10 qts drove car home and let it sit overnight. The oil level on dipstick with the hash marks is at the upper hole perfectly full. The other side is about 1/4 lower, point being on a cold engine one side of the dipstick should be on the full mark.I checked the oil level when cold (previous post was after 30 min of parking) this morning and level is now half point between two holes. It seems like the oil contracts when cold and level shows lower than when its warm. Before it was about 75% or 80% level between MIN/MAX.
Which one of these levels do you consider when adding oil? Because I may end up under the bottom hole much quicker if I check the level cold. My gut says do what manual says simply because Ford probably thought about overfilling problem. Imagine tracking this car and if you fill to MAX while cold when you are in track, you will go above MAX easily. Porsche for example recommends leaving the oil below MAX on purposeas part of track prep for the same reason.
Now if I see a 1/4th level of difference between cold and warm after regular driving, you could easily see twice of that when oil temps reach 240-250F, maybe even more than 1/4th.
What do you mean by "other side"?Just changed my oil on Saturday and added 10 qts drove car home and let it sit overnight. The oil level on dipstick with the hash marks is at the upper hole perfectly full. The other side is about 1/4 lower, point being on a cold engine one side of the dipstick should be on the full mark.
One side of the dipstick has hash marks and the "other side" doesn't. The dipstick goes into the oil at an angle so whichever side is down reads "higher" than the upper side, although not by much.What do you mean by "other side"?
I always assumed the top of the hole is the full mark because when I m at the bottom hole and add 1 qt, it always goes to the top hole, way past the hashmarks.One side of the dipstick has hash marks and the "other side" doesn't. The dipstick goes into the oil at an angle so whichever side is down reads "higher" than the upper side, although not by much.
"Full" on the dipstick is the top of the hashmarks. The hole is there for some purpose that Ford doesn't share with us, although it's probably the correct level for a brand-new engine that's due to be mated to an empty oil cooler.