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The horrible paint quality thread

UnhandledException

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Spent about 5 hours today claying the car and as a result ended up spending awful amount of time up close to it - which I am regretting now. Of all the cars I have owned and driven and seen, I don't think I have ever seen such a shitty paint job.

- Every single corner/tip of my trunk lid (that's all 4 corners) have paint chipped off. It's like the paint "dripped" from the tips and froze and then chipped off leaving bare metal.
- When the trunk is open, if you look closely to the weld points of the trunk opening (this is on the body of the car, not the trunk lid, it's basically where all the water drips into), you can see there are 2-3 areas where 3-4 inches long cracks have formed on the paint.
- This is most likely because of the alignment of my trunk, but basically I realized that from the rubbing of the trunk to the bumper (where it closes), there is a 4-5 inch x 1 inch gigantic scratch/paint chipping
- The intake's rubber cover thing has caused the hood's paint to peel off due to heat. I mean what kind of fucking paint did they use for it to peel off because of the warm plastic? Did they just steal crayola's paint solution and mixed it with theirs? This is just mind boggling.
- Both of my doors where have paint chips right by the opening, by the side mirrors/hinge side possibly from them seating the doors in the assembly line. Possibly they put the doors on the car, and when they closed the door, paint rubbed and chipped off, and then they aligned it.
- I also found 3 random half a mm size paint chips in the rear fenders and trunk. It looks like the paint is so thin, if you so much hit a butterfly on the road, it chips.

I wasn't going to do the xpel for the rest of the car for $2500 (which is why I spent 5 hours today claying and will do sealant tomorrow) after everyone in the forum strongly advising against it plus I wanted to save some money, but now I am genuinely worried. How the hell will this paint hold up in 2, 3, 4, 10 years..... In snow/winter.....

Jesus, seriously I am pissed.
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Tomster

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stanglife

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That’s a lot of hate for a car you’ve owned for how long? A year? You’re seriously saying you just noticed all of this? You didn’t care for the first year so just go back to that mindset and you’ll be set.

Seriously, just trade it in. Sounds like a bad example. M4 GTS?
 

SpursFan

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The paint on these is not very good quality at all. Virtually all the cars have the paint drips you mentioned. My 17 came from the factory with minimal issues compared to my 16 however i can say after spending days claying, polishing, touching up and sealing my 16 has cleaner paint. The 17 will have to go through the same process but its starting with a cleaner canvas.
 

Epiphany

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On their own, yeah, the paint and body panel alignment quality are in dire need of improvement. In the context of the entire vehicle though and what you do get for the pricepoint, I can't complain.

This car was designed to be pushed, particularly at the track. Service it well, keep it clean, and extract every bit of performance that Ford engineers were allowed to get away with. Focus on the good or be disappointed and look at it the way I usually do.

:)
 

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UnhandledException

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That’s a lot of hate for a car you’ve owned for how long? A year? You’re seriously saying you just noticed all of this? You didn’t care for the first year so just go back to that mindset and you’ll be set.

Seriously, just trade it in. Sounds like a bad example. M4 GTS?
I cant trade it in. I invested probably $10,000 already between the wheels, tires, exhaust, xpel, shifter etc. plus i love the car, truly do. I am just pissed at this issue.

Yes I only noticed this today because I never spent 5 hours right next to the car with a flashlight on my head my garage claying.

You could argue it doesnt look bad from a distance. You are right. The problem is, I put 15k miles in 13 months. Its daily driver. What will happen in 3, 5, heck 10 years after 100k miles and snow/salt torturing the paint.

I think I m going to have to shell out that $2500 for wrapping rest of the car. I dont think this paint will last 50k miles without major respraying major panels. I figure if I have to paint just the rear fender, thats at least $1000-1200 and then you can be back where you were a few years later.

I shouldnt say never, but I dont think i ll ever drive a BMW again.
 
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UnhandledException

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The paint on these is not very good quality at all. Virtually all the cars have the paint drips you mentioned. My 17 came from the factory with minimal issues compared to my 16 however i can say after spending days claying, polishing, touching up and sealing my 16 has cleaner paint. The 17 will have to go through the same process but its starting with a cleaner canvas.

If you dont mind me asking, can you share your process? Maybe I can learna thing or two and apply the same techniques to my car.

Thanks
 
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UnhandledException

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On their own, yeah, the paint and body panel alignment quality are in dire need of improvement. In the context of the entire vehicle though and what you do get for the pricepoint, I can't complain.

This car was designed to be pushed, particularly at the track. Service it well, keep it clean, and extract every bit of performance that Ford engineers were allowed to get away with. Focus on the good or be disappointed and look at it the way I usually do.

:)
I am and I do those things quite well and thoroughly. The issue I have is rust. Period. Nothing else. I am not bitching here because my car doesnt look nice because paint scratches so easily. No. I am bitching because this paint in this condition will cause these panels to rust down the line. I dont think any of you are putting the kind of miles I do under the conditions I drive in. This is my daily driver, including snow.
 

Epiphany

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What will happen in 3, 5, heck 10 years after 100k miles and snow/salt torturing the paint.
Torturing the paint?

Living in the northeast for much of my life I assure you, the underbody will be ruined enough. The condition of the paint will be meaningless.
 

Socalrugger

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I do agree with the OP that the paint quality is to be desired but I’m of the mindset that this is a depreciating asset. I’ll do what I can to keep it looking as nice as I can . Anything above that, i think you’re setting yourself up for disappointment. Point is don’t stress out so much over the paint. There’s some really fucked up things in this world to stress out about and paint ain’t one of them
 

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Had the same happen to me yesterday; I was cleaning my car and noticed quite a bit of imperfections with the paint. I was a little perturbed until I started it up to take it for a drive and the sweat sounding engine put the smile back on my face.

It’s a bit disappointing to see these imperfections in a $60K car, but in my case, I bought the car for its power plant and limited production numbers. With that said, I convinced myself to overlook the annoying details and enjoy the ride.
 

fordsvtparts

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I know there are many here how would not want someone else to mess with their car, and I can't blame them at all. However, if you do trust a dealership (or a bodyshop who works for the dealer), warranty does often cover paint issues.
 

17RubyShelbyGT350

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I have looked closely at the paint on my Ruby '17 and it certainly is not up to the level of my Audi SQ5, but that is not a big surprise, and not why I bought the car. After washing, clay barring, working a coat of Mequiers milder compound, applying two coats of Ammo Reflex, one coat of Ammo Skin, and a top coat of P21s 100 percent carnuba wax, it positively glows. There are a few very small paint chips, and the panels align better than many Shelbys I have seen, but not anywhere close to the Audi's.

I have had a $120k C6 ZR1 whose pain was not that much better.

I didn't buy the car to display it in my garage or just go to cars and coffee. And as you already know, this car has a presence like few others...
 

SpursFan

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If you dont mind me asking, can you share your process? Maybe I can learna thing or two and apply the same techniques to my car.

Thanks
Lots of trial and error!

Mainly i touched up all the chips and drips(Dr color chip kit), then polished and protected. Having the right tools is the key. I have a porter cable double action polisher and a good assortment of pads to match the polish your using. For the 16 I used Menzerna medium cut 2400 with a orange lake country pad. That got out most of the paint imperfections after a couple passes. There were a couple locations I wet sanded prior to polishing. Sanding new paint sounds scary but it's really not if you are cautious and research. That said you can easily do permanent damage so best left to pros if you have concerns. The finishing polish will take the sand paper scratches out. Next I polished with Menzerna 3500 using a white finishing pad.

After all the polishing I sealed it up with a couple coats of Wolfgang deep gloss sealant. It's been close to two years and it's time for some maintenance. I'll give it a good clay job, polish with 3500 and give it a coat of CQuartz. I was Leary about applying CQuartz but I used it on my s2k with exceptional results.

I buy all my detail products from autogeek, there is a plethora of information on their website and in the forums.
 

TheDeadCow

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Reminder: You bought a $25K car w/$35K engine.

IMO, the paint is fine but I can relate to your complaints as well. Things like this are what you trade for performance. An M4 is roughly $15 more and I'm sure, like anything else, it's not perfect either.

Take your car to the track, it'll show you where your money went. Most of all, it might help you minimize these little issues.

https://www.drcolorchip.com
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