g-loc pads - how long are they lasting on track?

I'll be buying pads soon, and have gone all over the place researching...

Hawk DTC60s are coming out this week, but hawks have mega corrosive dust that can ruin wheels and even paintwork.

Pagid 29s (yellow) are $675 for the fronts!!!!!

This leaves G-loc and Carbotech. How long do they last? Will I get a season of 6-8 track days out of them? Mid Ohio, 4klbs without an instructor 140ish on back straight on 300tw tires.

Thanks.

Really depends on how hard you are on braking and which compound. Example, I found XP12 wore almost twice as fast as XP10 on my old track car if pushed hard. So with that data I doubt you will get 6-8 days out of XP12 unless you don't brake hard but you might make it with XP10. XP10 are better matched with 300tw tires anyway so in your shoes I would go this route. You can go XP8 in the rears and they will probably last you 2 years or more if you have stability/traction control turned off.

G-loc recommended the r10 front r8 rear with my 300tw tires.

Mid Ohio has a long straight onto a basically 90 degree right, without much trouble I was 140mph, braking zone is pretty hard. No experience with other tracks to compare, but I'd consider it a heavy brake zone.

Contact OPMustang.com for advice here.

With a 300TW tire the R10/R8 is a better combination. It's a similar set-up to what I run. Pad life is subjective because we have customers who will go through two sets of rear pads to one up front and Customers who will have the rear pads last 4 times longer. Stopping a 4K pound vehicle requires a lot of energy. Brake Cooling makes a large difference. R12's should last longer than R10's and R16's should last longer than R12's. The truth is as you progress in compound you also brake later, carry more speed and build more heat. So this effects wear greatly. The largest issue is when someone moves up in compound and brakes the way they did with lower compound. Habits formed in braking points cause the pedal to be held down longer causing excessive pad wear. When you go up in compound you should be on the brake pedal less per lap. Stab and steer.

That said, we have R8, R10, R12 and R16's on the shelf. As a side note I ran R10/R8 at Daytona for 3 days and barely have any pad wear, as in they still look new. Driver style is the largest metric in pad life.

Thanks for the info.

Tommy, sent you a PM.

I ran the carbotech 12/10 combo which should be the same as the GLOC equivalent last year. I think I got 8-9 days out of the fronts. Rears still have some left I believe.

I ran the Hawk DTC70 front and DTC30 rear(would rather have the 60 but they aren't out yet) a couple weeks ago at Road Atlanta with success. I'm not sure if they are as thick as the carbotech/GLOC pads. I had to throw them in my carry on and install them trackside the morning of so I didn't measure thickness or anything. I'm sure it wouldn't be very hard to figure out though searching online. Pads worked great and I've always been a big fan of Hawk pads. Even better, I think the Hawk front and rear set only cost somewhere between $300-350 total... about $200 cheaper. Thickness will play into this equation between Hawk vs GLOC/carbotech, but I'd bet the Hawk is still a more affordable pad.

Brent Dalton said:

I ran the carbotech 12/10 combo which should be the same as the GLOC equivalent last year. I think I got 8-9 days out of the fronts. Rears still have some left I believe.

I ran the Hawk DTC70 front and DTC30 rear(would rather have the 60 but they aren't out yet) a couple weeks ago at Road Atlanta with success. I'm not sure if they are as thick as the carbotech/GLOC pads. I had to throw them in my carry on and install them trackside the morning of so I didn't measure thickness or anything. I'm sure it wouldn't be very hard to figure out though searching online. Pads worked great and I've always been a big fan of Hawk pads. Even better, I think the Hawk front and rear set only cost somewhere between $300-350 total... about $200 cheaper. Thickness will play into this equation between Hawk vs GLOC/carbotech, but I'd bet the Hawk is still a more affordable pad.

Click to expand...

Your build thread got me looking into the Hawks actually.

The DTC 60s front and rear will be available this week. Spoke to both Hawk and Jay

I then found out that the hawks have corrosive dust, which can/will ruin wheels and even in rare cases paintwork on the body if flashed with rain/water or not cleaned thoroughly after track work.

Pass.

Then I researched Pagid 29s, $675 for just the fronts!!!

Back to G-loc/carbotech. Was very happy with my XP8s on my Golf R, so going this route.

Are you running ducts?

Also, look at your pad wear immediately after a track weekend and seen if you are experiencing caliper twist on the spindle. You may notice the wear looks like the caliper is at an angle to the rotor. This may show up under heavy track loading and will even back out with street use.

My experience has been that the wider 6 pot contact area lessens this issue vs 4 pots, but it still happens and can cause non uniform heating and wear. Basically, edges run way hotter at peak braking due to spindle ears flexing. Notice uneven wear in image. Not just uneven, pad surfaces are not flat and actually have a curve.

Only fix is switch to GT350 spindles/front suspension and brakes. There is a reason Ford made the GT350 front spindles stiffer in holding the caliper parallel to the rotor.

:threadjacked: Anyone have pics of 2018 GT brakes and spindles?
Will trade for 1 Little Ceasars pizza delivered

sigintel said:

Are you running ducts?

Also, look at your pad wear immediately after a track weekend and seen if you are experiencing caliper twist on the spindle. You may notice the wear looks like the caliper is at an angle to the rotor. This may show up under heavy track loading and will even back out with street use.

My experience has been that the wider 6 pot contact area lessens this issue vs 4 pots, but it still happens and can cause non uniform heating and wear. Basically, edges run way hotter at peak braking due to spindle ears flexing. Notice uneven wear in image. Not just uneven, pad surfaces are not flat and actually have a curve.

Only fix is switch to GT350 spindles/front suspension and brakes. There is a reason Ford made the GT350 front spindles stiffer in holding the caliper parallel to the rotor.

:threadjacked: Anyone have pics of 2018 GT brakes and spindles?
Will trade for 1 Little Ceasars pizza delivered

Click to expand...

Are you running stock pads on the 4 piston set up?

sigintel said:

...

:threadjacked: Anyone have pics of 2018 GT brakes and spindles?
...

Click to expand...

I'm with you. At this point I'm going to wait it out and see how the spec out the 2018s. I've loosely priced out all the work to make the car, say, 9/10ths capable and hoo boi lotta monay.

Having said that I'm probably going to be sending a whole bunch a money to Optimum very soon (hopefully you ship to Canada) and try to make the 4 pots work at least this year.

F0J said:

I'm with you. At this point I'm going to wait it out and see how the spec out the 2018s. I've loosely priced out all the work to make the car, say, 9/10ths capable and hoo boi lotta monay.

Having said that I'm probably going to be sending a whole bunch a money to Optimum very soon (hopefully you ship to Canada) and try to make the 4 pots work at least this year.

Click to expand...

We do ship to Canada, and recently signed a new contract with UPS so we can compare it to Fed-EX Ground.

Optimum Performance said:

We do ship to Canada, and recently signed a new contract with UPS so we can compare it to Fed-EX Ground.

Click to expand...

PM'd.

Optimum Performance said:

Are you running stock pads on the 4 piston set up?

Click to expand...

The picture above is OEM 4 pots (base GT, PP Eco) from capacity testing.
Degradation was expected and new OEM pads were used in a controlled 30 minutes shooting temps and incrementally increasing thermal load.
Obviously, you dont do this at the end of a straight or around others...
Point of the image is the caliper twist; pads did not "fail" but actually performed as intended. Twist concentrates heat and force on the pad edges accelerating wear and shortening the pad contact patch allowing more twist.

Track pads will be capable of higher grip levels and *possibly* higher twist and localized overheating. Could this be a mechanism for premature wear?

I am currently running stock spindles w 6 pot PP w GLOC for track.

Feel free to PM.

I'm not running aftermarket cooling, but I'd like to get the JLT kit.