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Manders Mustang

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No idea what you've posted Magnets, you're on my ignore list, but most of this stuff concerns V8's, so not really pertinent to your ride
Do yourself a favour and change the fking record you boring old man.
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Gibbo205

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Seriously you pair, you fuck up my thread I am clicking that damn report button on the pair of you and Twin Turbo can kick your asses.

About time you both went to Fight Club, had it out, or sat down over a beer and had a banter fight, either way, get out my thread! :p

Love ya both really, but guys, seriously CHILL PILL!
 
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Just installed the Mishi tube, so far not so good, car feels fine low down, maybe a touch more torque.

But up top it feels like it falls a bit flat, no knock showing, its either adapting or its a bit meh.

First flow result also shows 42.90, a touch down, but with how flat it felt that was not painting the true picture.
 

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Just installed the Mishi tube, so far not so good, car feels fine low down, maybe a touch more torque.

But up top it feels like it falls a bit flat, no knock showing, its either adapting or its a bit meh.

First flow result also shows 42.90, a touch down, but with how flat it felt that was not painting the true picture.
Now that is surprising, so Results are down? Marginally, but the "bum on seat" feeling is much more negative?

Is it like the AIR raid tube where the real gains are coming from dialling in (Tuning) the extra. Anyone with more GT knowledge know if there's anything that's "stopping" the extra airflow at a certain point or causing the car to pull power?


Odd question, but whilst writing this, have you tried resetting the KAM and doing a 30min drive just to test if it kicks back up. Probably wont do much, but worth a shot.
 
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Gibbo205

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Now that is surprising, so Results are down? Marginally, but the "bum on seat" feeling is much more negative?

Is it like the AIR raid tube where the real gains are coming from dialling in (Tuning) the extra. Anyone with more GT knowledge know if there's anything that's "stopping" the extra airflow at a certain point or causing the car to pull power?


Odd question, but whilst writing this, have you tried resetting the KAM and doing a 30min drive just to test if it kicks back up. Probably wont do much, but worth a shot.

No did not reset KAM, something I shall do on drive home tonight, just in case the extra volume of air in the tube is throwing of fuel trims and maf sensor.

As it makes no sense and as such it could just be some odd fuelling issue, but all looked well, AFR was pretty spot on, touch rich if anything and spark/knock all looked fine.

Might go do KAM reset and give it a quick blast whilst its warm.
 

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No did not reset KAM, something I shall do on drive home tonight, just in case the extra volume of air in the tube is throwing of fuel trims and maf sensor.

As it makes no sense and as such it could just be some odd fuelling issue, but all looked well, AFR was pretty spot on, touch rich if anything and spark/knock all looked fine.

Might go do KAM reset and give it a quick blast whilst its warm.
That would be my "go to" I found that whenever I was adding engine mods post tune, that resetting KAM gave them a bit of a kick and registered them a bit more :thumbsup:.
 

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Yeah, I'd say let the fuel trims adapt over a few days of driving.

I like the Airaid elbow I have but I should just for kicks put the stock elbow back on and compare.

What's a KAM reset btw?
 

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Yeah, I'd say let the fuel trims adapt over a few days of driving.

I like the Airaid elbow I have but I should just for kicks put the stock elbow back on and compare.

What's a KAM reset btw?
KAM is the Keep Alive Memory that the car has. Basically if you drive hard everywhere, it'll get used to that, drive like a granddad, it'll get used to that. Resetting it puts it back to "unknowing" how you'll drive. Basically, putting it simply, it's data stored in the ECU that NEVER goes away even when the car is turned off it stores and remembers that specific data. In Fords case it's drive style and a few other jimmies. There's two variants of KAM in the Mustang, in this instance we're talking on the ECU, the ICE system also has KAM memory in it to remember favourite locations, your home, stations, sync'd devices, setup etc.
 
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Yeah, I'd say let the fuel trims adapt over a few days of driving.

I like the Airaid elbow I have but I should just for kicks put the stock elbow back on and compare.

What's a KAM reset btw?
KAM is keep alive memory. The car learns the fuel trims, ideally after any mod you should reset KAM so fuel trims can re-adapt the new mods.

A battery disconnect also has the same desired effect, but on an SCT X4 its a feature, probably also on nGauge too.

I've just done KAM reset, car does feel perkier, maf flow up to 43.30lbs so pretty much on par.

Also must note when I did WOT this morning it was 12c and intake was 15c. Now its 24c and intake was at 29c, this is going to impact power too.

I did just do a 0-100 in the car park, 10.9s so that seems on the money as I used 4th, not going to be beating my best of 9.9s because no longer got the 350 kit on there which obviously put the car around 500HP.

What I could also be perceiving is that because of more mid-range, if the top end is the same as before, the additional mid-range will make the top-end feel weaker even if it is not.

I had this on my 911, with cats from 4000rpm up to 7000rpm the car just pulled linear. With decats 4000-7000rpm, the pull started a bit weak and then it blew my socks off, felt like 50+ horsepower more. The reality was the car lost 50lb/ft under 4500rpm, but gained 20HP. As such I felt the power curve coming into play harder with de-cats giving false illusion of the car being much faster up top than it was.

I could be feeling the same that due to a much more spikey low/mid range, the top-end now feels naturally weaker, plus another 15c on intake compared to this morning won't help.

Tomorrow morning will be a fairer test. :)
 
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Gibbo205

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KAM is the Keep Alive Memory that the car has. Basically if you drive hard everywhere, it'll get used to that, drive like a granddad, it'll get used to that. Resetting it puts it back to "unknowing" how you'll drive. Basically, putting it simply, it's data stored in the ECU that NEVER goes away even when the car is turned off it stores and remembers that specific data. In Fords case it's drive style and a few other jimmies. There's two variants of KAM in the Mustang, in this instance we're talking on the ECU, the ICE system also has KAM memory in it to remember favourite locations, your home, stations, sync'd devices, setup etc.
Not strictly true.

KAM on the Mustang is essentially fuel trims, idle learning and thats about it. Possible the auto has some shift style learning, but on manuals the car does not learn your driving style.


From BAMA:

KAM Reset
KAM stands for Keep Alive Memory and is where all the learned adjustments that the computer has made over time. Most of these are settings for fuel trims and information to help with idle stability. You would want to reset the KAM after fixing a mechanical issue like an air leak or a bad tank of gas. This functions like reloading the tune file but you do not have to go through the whole process. To reset the KAM just follow these steps.

1. Go into the Vehicle Functions option.

2. Then select Special Functions and you will be prompted to turn the key on and continue.

3. From here select the option for KAM Reset.

4. This will prompt you to turn the key on again and 'Continue', if the key is still on just select continue.

5. This will then reset the KAM and take you back out to the Special Functions screen and you can start the vehicle.


Crank Relearn
The Crank Relearn is not something that needs to be done too often and is more common for Manual Transmission Vehicles. On the 2011+ Mustangs you will need to use this function if you have replaced the clutch on a manual or for automatics if the trans has been removed for service. We have also seen occurrences on the 2015+ Mustangs where this is needed after loading a tune file. Lets go over the steps for doing this.

1. Go into the Vehicle Functions option.

2. Then select Special Functions and you will be prompted to turn the key on and continue.

3. From here select the option for Crank Relearn.

4. You will get a Notice about doing this procedure after certain engine repairs, select Continue.

5. Then follow the steps, Step 1 - Make sure no DTC's are present, if non continue. If there are DTC's you would need to clear them first (Clear DTC's).

6. Step 2 - Return rev limiters to stock. This is not always the case and you can Continue.

7. Step 3 - Start and Idle Engine. Keep the car in neutral and let the engine get to operating temp.

8. Step 4 - Make sure all accessories like A/C, Defroster are turned off.
 

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Manders Mustang

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I find mine responds a bit better (maybe not shift patterns), but in terms of aggressiveness, if I reset the KAM and run hard for a few miles, if I go on long drives and drive like a granddad the car feels like it's holding back before releasing the beans, whereas if I drive like a nutter from the reset it'll be fine, may just be placebo though lol!
 
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Gibbo205

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I find mine responds a bit better (maybe not shift patterns), but in terms of aggressiveness, if I reset the KAM and run hard for a few miles, if I go on long drives and drive like a granddad the car feels like it's holding back before releasing the beans, whereas if I drive like a nutter from the reset it'll be fine, may just be placebo though lol!
Has no impact on the V8 I feel, like I say its a fuel trim memory and for idle learning. Maybe the EB is different but I can spend a week driving like miss daisy, then a week later the first time I get on it it goes like a stink and if I spend a week spanking it, it goes no faster than it did being miss daisy.
 

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Most of the granddads on here have V8s. So you can't drive like a granddad. :doh:
I can point you to some that don't, mind you that engine is sluggish anyway, so, really they do it if they don't break 4k ;)!

[MENTION=13598]Gibbo205[/MENTION] maybe some difference in car/engine, maybe just used to driving like miss daisy (before some pedantic person says "all miss daisys drive V8s"). I mean, car does have a turbo strapped to it, so there could be some KAM in that with the blowoffs and how long it'll hold boost for etc. It could just be totally placebo as I said though.
 

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I've seen a video on YouTube of a back to back track test of the V8 vs the EB. Does a good honest video of the EB vs V8 on track together and drag race?

I love the general grunt and feel of my RS which I believe is pretty much identical to the Mustang EB power and torque?
 
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Gibbo205

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I can point you to some that don't, mind you that engine is sluggish anyway, so, really they do it if they don't break 4k ;)!

[MENTION=13598]Gibbo205[/MENTION] maybe some difference in car/engine, maybe just used to driving like miss daisy (before some pedantic person says "all miss daisys drive V8s"). I mean, car does have a turbo strapped to it, so there could be some KAM in that with the blowoffs and how long it'll hold boost for etc. It could just be totally placebo as I said though.
Might be a sluggish engine, but is faster than those whizz pop EB's. NA power is linear and smooth. Turbo power is in a much shorter RPM range, giving the illusion of it feeling faster than it is.

Best way to demonstrate this, get in a 335D with a map, drive it and you will be blown away. Then get in a Mustang it will feel slow in comparison, put both side by side in a drag race and the Mustang will win, the V8 of course, the EB would still get beaten by the BMW diesel. :D
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