Oil consumption got worse. Not sure what to do. Should I sell the car?

TRAC WPN · Oct 16, 2017

UnhandledException said:
When I get the blackstone report back, I will post the report here and that'll be the end of it

looking forward to the results

ThreeFiveO · Oct 16, 2017

I was thinking it would be nice to know what color in case he dumps the car on a dealer. The new buyer might not appreciate inheriting his problem.

mustang1 · Oct 16, 2017

UnhandledException said:
... My baseline is other performance cars. A Z06, a GT3, an M3, an M5, none of these cars go through this much oil. ...

BMW doesn't seem to be greener (or browner) grass :

“Oil consumption is normal on all engines,” BMW spokesman Hector Arellano-Belloc said in an e-mailed statement. “BMW vehicles have long intervals between oil changes (10,000 miles). BMW engines (excluding the BMW M) may consume up to one quart of engine oil per 750 miles under certain driving conditions.”Jun 30, 2015

UnhandledException said:
When I get the blackstone report back, I will post the report here and that'll be the end of it

previous Oil article says :

"One method of checking worn and stuck rings is, with a compression test

That data would be more interesting than an oil analysis.

torque124 · Oct 16, 2017

My M5 was easily burning 1 quart per 500-1000 miles, depending on how heavy I was on throttle... But it was a V10, more cylinders, more places to burn oil

On the other hand, my GT500 (which I still miss sometimes, that awesome godly mountain of torque, tire shredding and widow making) never burned anything. Zero, zip. Most I went on a change was about 4500 miles, and it was just full. But it wasn't a car you would redline; although it had a 7500 RPM redline, not bad for supercharged V8.

UnhandledException · Oct 16, 2017

ThreeFiveO said:
I was thinking it would be nice to know what color in case he dumps the car on a dealer. The new buyer might not appreciate inheriting his problem.

I am not going to sell the car to a private party. And believe me, I will tell the dealer "the car uses way too much oil" as the reason why i m trading it. Car is under warranty and its not like I tuned it and broke it and I am hiding anything.

Also chances are next owner will shift at 2000 rpm and not 4500 and not redline the car as offen.

UnhandledException · Oct 16, 2017

torque124 said:
My M5 was easily burning 1 quart per 500-1000 miles, depending on how heavy I was on throttle... But it was a V10, more cylinders, more places to burn oil

On the other hand, my GT500 (which I still miss sometimes, that awesome godly mountain of torque, tire shredding and widow making) never burned anything. Zero, zip. Most I went on a change was about 4500 miles, and it was just full. But it wasn't a car you would redline; although it had a 7500 RPM redline, not bad for supercharged V8.

Oh the mighty V10.... those days of having a family sedan that sounds like a formula 1 car:love:

ThreeFiveO · Oct 16, 2017

Good talking to you McarsFan. I was worried you weren't coming back. Glad you're all good.
Good luck with your car. Hope it's a minor issue.

MrCincinnati · Oct 16, 2017

UnhandledException said:
Thanks I will.

That being said, I just got home and rechecked the oil (car is cold, level, in garage, never started the engine) and unfortunately I had to add 1 qt of oil:( Unfortunately thats 189 miles before last oil fill up.

I will change the oil on Wednesday, send the sample to blackstone, and drive the car for another 500 miles. If by miracle things go back to normal, I'll celebrate but I doubt it. I think the car is going to have to go and this sour experience will never go away. This was my first american car purchase and I was really happy all along, but the disappointment of losing something so precious especially given the sentimental value of it more so than just losing a sports car, I'll just never forget it and probably stay angry at Ford until the universe ends

The reality is, they have this amazing idea with the FPC, they put the time and effort and R&D and everything, get the corporate buy in, but the execution is absolutely disaster. Building such a high revving exotic engine in the flat rock assembly without the right set of tools to ensure quality control is a recipe for disaster.

If I were you I'd stick to checking the oil as specified in the manual: 15min after you shut the car off. I literally set a 15min timer and check it within a 5min window of that going off.

You're getting wildly varying results - but you're also not following the manufacturer's instructions. I often have to check the dipstick multiple times - yesterday the first pull showed it below bottom hole, 2nd pull also, 3rd pull showed solid line a mm or so above the hole as did 4th. Had I gone strictly off the first reading I'd have added a quart of oil and been slightly overfilled. The manual specifically mentions not to add oil unless it's below bottom hole.

I know it sounds silly to check the oil 15min after versus cold etc but it makes a difference with this car. Given your broad set of results with the appearance of abnormal consumption - it may be wise to more tightly control your measurements and adhere to the recommended guidelines. Otherwise you're kinda shooting in the dark and coming up with unreliable conclusions.

UnhandledException · Oct 16, 2017

MrCincinnati said:
If I were you I'd stick to checking the oil as specified in the manual: 15min after you shut the car off. I literally set a 15min timer and check it within a 5min window of that going off.

You're getting wildly varying results - but you're also not following the manufacturer's instructions. I often have to check the dipstick multiple times - yesterday the first pull showed it below bottom hole, 2nd pull also, 3rd pull showed solid line a mm or so above the hole as did 4th.

I know it sounds silly to check the oil 15min after versus cold etc but it makes a difference with this car. Given your broad set of results with the appearance of abnormal consumption - it may be wise to more tightly control your measurements and adhere to the recommended guidelines. Otherwise you're kinda shooting in the dark and coming up with unreliable conclusions.

I will take the advice of everyone here and first do an oil change and from that point on do as you suggested, warm engine (200F oil temp), shut it off for 15 min, and check. Do it in the same spot each time. And do it for 500 miles. At the end of 500 miles I will evaluate plus the blackstone report. Fingers crossed

MrCincinnati · Oct 16, 2017

UnhandledException said:
I will take the advice of everyone here and first do an oil change and from that point on do as you suggested, warm engine (200F oil temp), shut it off for 15 min, and check. Do it in the same spot each time. And do it for 500 miles. At the end of 500 miles I will evaluate plus the blackstone report. Fingers crossed

Good luck!

GT Pony · Oct 17, 2017

UnhandledException said:
There is no pcv valve built anywhere in the UPR system. The high flow fitting is optional. If there were a secondary pcv valve like you said, then the system would be too restrictive if a buyer didnt opt for the high flow fitting.

I never said there was a "secondary PCV valve". What I'm saying is that there needs to be, and should be a PCV valve on the dirty side of the system, either in stock form or in any aftermarket system like the UPR.

Obviously there is a check valve in the hose of the UPR, just like all their systems, and you verified it was there and flowed in the right direction.

UnhandledException said:
Because you guys made me paranoid, I was actually going through all my DIY pictures and did find that the check valve was installed in the right direction with the arrows pointing the right way. So its not that and plus if I actually did install it backwards, the catch can would be bone dry.

EDIT: also just blew on the hose and yes check valve was installed the right direction.

GT Pony · Oct 17, 2017

MrCincinnati said:
If I were you I'd stick to checking the oil as specified in the manual: 15min after you shut the car off. I literally set a 15min timer and check it within a 5min window of that going off.

That will work, but with clean oil it's very hard to see the exact level on the dipstick. As suggested before, checking the oil level in the morning when the car is stone cold is a more consistent method, and makes it much easier to see the level on the dipstick when the oil is clean. Whatever method is used, it needs to be done exactly the same way in exactly the same parking spot.

mustang1 · Oct 17, 2017

GT Pony said:
I never said there was a "secondary PCV valve". What I'm saying is that there needs to be, and should be a PCV valve on the dirty side of the system, either in stock form or in any aftermarket system like the UPR.

Obviously there is a check valve in the hose of the UPR, just like all their systems, and you verified it was there and flowed in the right direction.

my concern would be that the "hi flow" PCV would have a different spring rate, and maybe allow more oil mist / vapor into the intake under high RPM engine braking.

GT Pony said:
That will work, but with clean oil it's very hard to see the exact level on the dipstick. As suggested before, checking the oil level in the morning when the car is stone cold is a more consistent method, and makes it much easier to see the level on the dipstick when the oil is clean. Whatever method is used, it needs to be done exactly the same way in exactly the same parking spot.

Quite a bit of difficulty with checking the oil in this thread. Any issues with adding a UV dye to the oil for 250+ miles ?

GT Pony · Oct 17, 2017

mustang1 said:
Quite a bit of difficulty with checking the oil in this thread.

It's not rocket science ... just check it cold in the mornings before driving the car, with car is same exact parking spot (ie, in the garage). I've used that method for 30+ years and it works great. Only reason the manufacturer want you to check the oil hot is to ensure it's not over filled because the oil level will go up some when hot. But if you want to accurately monitor oil usage, check it cold.

UnhandledException · Oct 17, 2017

The issue I have wirh checking oil when cold is basically its not what Ford recommends but I get the point you are making.

Also this so called high flow PCV fitting has no spring in it. There is nothing but an empty tube that threads on to valve cover.

Oil consumption got worse. Not sure what to do. Should I sell the car?

TRAC WPN

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ThreeFiveO

Chassis #1356

mustang1

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torque124

Torque

UnhandledException

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UnhandledException

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ThreeFiveO

Chassis #1356

MrCincinnati

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UnhandledException

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MrCincinnati

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GT Pony

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GT Pony

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mustang1

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