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2016 lambda sensor failed 1200 miles

GSLSE20B

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SP long tubes (offroad) , jlt intake and Lund FLEX tune . I've noticed my lambda readings are slow to react the last two days . Today my rh sensor read high and then read zero . I swapped them( left and right)to verify the failure , when I removed the defective sensor ,beads of white dust fell from the tip. A V.o.m test shows an open heater circuit . Does anyone know the current part number for the 2016 lambda sensor? FR3Z9F472C Is the only number I have found so far . $47.00 seems cheap for the NTK LAMBDA .
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w3bb3r04

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SP long tubes (offroad) , jlt intake and Lund FLEX tune . I've noticed my lambda readings are slow to react the last two days . Today my rh sensor read high and then read zero . I swapped them( left and right)to verify the failure , when I removed the defective sensor ,beads of white dust fell from the tip. A V.o.m test shows an open heater circuit . Does anyone know the current part number for the 2016 lambda sensor? FR3Z9F472C Is the only number I have found so far . $47.00 seems cheap for the NTK LAMBDA .
This happened to a buddy of mine with the same headers and a Lund E85 tune. Ive heard the angle of the o2 sensor is what is leading to the failures but Im not sure.
 

Major League Infidel

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I would suggest having the O2 bungs relocated to angle the senors like this / \ in the collector. I had the same issue on my 12 and it would eat up O2s on E85 until i relocated it.
 

zaquhree

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this is why I bought Kooks...you need to be careful with o2 placement
 

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Sixth

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Do Kook's and ARH have the sensor in a more optimal position than the competition to avoid premature failure?
on the 11-14 i believe they still needed to be relocated. not sure if they changed it up though.
 

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Jeff's FRC

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E85 is hygroscopic.
Not gonna lie, I had to google that...lol

So the fix is to weld new bungs on at a downward angle? Gonna dig the SP headers out of the box now and check em out. I may not have known what hygroscopic meant, but I can weld stainless steel:D
 

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Not gonna lie, I had to google that...lol

So the fix is to weld new bungs on at a downward angle? Gonna dig the SP headers out of the box now and check em out. I may not have known what hygroscopic meant, but I can weld stainless steel:D
You want them between the 11 and 1 oclock positions. Somewhere around the top of the pipe.
 

Nick@JDM

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this is why I bought Kooks...you need to be careful with o2 placement
+1

E85 is nasty stuff and the Kooks headers are more of a mid-length header so it keeps those sensors hotter. They function better close to the engine and should always be angles downward whenever possible. Moisture will accumulate in the sensor and can crack when the water freezes and or burn out the heater.
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