Suggestions on bleeding brake

Materials · Jun 18, 2017

Hey Guys,

Would like to get some suggestions on bleeding brake as I just got 4 bottles of Motul Fluid and gloc brake pads. Mine is Ecoboost 2015 without performance package.

1. I plan to have a body help me, a.k.a, the two-person method. How big of the hose/tube do I need to attached to the bleeder? I also heard the size of the bleeder is different for front and rear? Also, what is the size the wrench should I use to loosen the bleeder?

2. I heard the order to bleed is passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, and driver front, is this right?

I am also confused when people say additional master cylinders needed bleeding...so are we actually not bleeding the master cylinders?

Thanks for your help guys!:cheers:

scott_0 · Jun 18, 2017

get one of these! fill it with the fluid of your choice, connect it to the reservoir, pump it up, and crack one bleeder at a time, one person job, never have to touch the brake pedal

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/ford-two-tab-bleeder

NightmareMoon · Jun 18, 2017

I know the PP cars bleeder valves are a 10mm rear, 11mm front. Its probably the same on the non-PP brakes.

"Bleeding" is just flushing the old fluid out of the calipers and the lines near the calipers. If you've got good fluid and just got it a bit too hot, or you're trying to firm up a pedal a little bit, a quick bleed will do the trick.

"Flushing" is a complete fluid replacement. Sounds like you're going for a full flush.

I used to do it with the two person method (one time I even rigged up a string and pully system to pull the wrench and close the bleeder valve with out a second helper).

Then I found a cheap brake fluid bottle with a built in check valve and have been using that lately, you pump the pedal, and the capture bottle check valve makes sure the fluid doesn't go backwards much after you stop, but it can still leak a bit of air back in if your line isn't super tight on the bleeder nipple. The challenge is, since you're in the car pumping the pedal 20 or so times per caliper, you have to be careful not to overflow you capture bottle or worse, drain the reservoir dry. Whoops.

Honestly it does sound like that Motive pressure bleeder is the way to go. You can keep an eye on the fluid and close of the valve instead of pumping the pedal and guessing when the new fluid reaches the caliper.

scott_0 · Jun 18, 2017

NightmareMoon said:
Honestly it does sound like that Motive pressure bleeder is the way to go. You can keep an eye on the fluid and close of the valve instead of pumping the pedal and guessing when the new fluid reaches the caliper.

I have one, and it is amazing, there are cheaper alternatives available however

DUNDEM · Jun 18, 2017

scott_0 said:
I have one, and it is amazing, there are cheaper alternatives available however

This product looks awesome. I'm going to use it to flush my system.

Materials · Jun 19, 2017

NightmareMoon said:
I know the PP cars bleeder valves are a 10mm rear, 11mm front. Its probably the same on the non-PP brakes.

"Bleeding" is just flushing the old fluid out of the calipers and the lines near the calipers. If you've got good fluid and just got it a bit too hot, or you're trying to firm up a pedal a little bit, a quick bleed will do the trick.

"Flushing" is a complete fluid replacement. Sounds like you're going for a full flush.

I used to do it with the two person method (one time I even rigged up a string and pully system to pull the wrench and close the bleeder valve with out a second helper).

Then I found a cheap brake fluid bottle with a built in check valve and have been using that lately, you pump the pedal, and the capture bottle check valve makes sure the fluid doesn't go backwards much after you stop, but it can still leak a bit of air back in if your line isn't super tight on the bleeder nipple. The challenge is, since you're in the car pumping the pedal 20 or so times per caliper, you have to be careful not to overflow you capture bottle or worse, drain the reservoir dry. Whoops.

Honestly it does sound like that Motive pressure bleeder is the way to go. You can keep an eye on the fluid and close of the valve instead of pumping the pedal and guessing when the new fluid reaches the caliper.

Hey thanks for your advice. How many jack stands would you need to flush the brake? Do I need jack up my car entirely or one jack stand is enough?

NightmareMoon · Jun 19, 2017

Materials said:
Hey thanks for your advice. How many jack stands would you need to flush the brake? Do I need jack up my car entirely or one jack stand is enough?

I do all 4. Its quicker to jack up one while side at a time from the middle of the car and I think its easier to take all the wheels off at once than to go up and down on each corner.

Materials · Jun 20, 2017

NightmareMoon said:
I do all 4. Its quicker to jack up one while side at a time from the middle of the car and I think its easier to take all the wheels off at once than to go up and down on each corner.

Do you buy any wrench tool kit or impact wrench for the work? I am trying to decide if I need a wrench tool kit since I might have to do these type of thing a lot in the future.

Thanks!

plc268 · Jun 20, 2017

Skip the power tools at first and get a nice breaker bar, 1/2 ratchet, 1/2 metric socket set, and 1/2 torque wrench.

Go find a harbor freight and get it all there. While you're there, pick up one of their 3 ton floor jacks if you don't already have a decent floor jack, and extra jack stands too.

NightmareMoon · Jun 20, 2017

Friends don't let friends buy real tools from Harbor Freight. Price is good, quality is iffy.

I don't have an ecoboost, so IDK what exact tools you need for the the front pads. For my GT w/ Brembos, besides a socket wrench set, I need a couple of C clamps to spread the calipers, a soft mallet and a punch to bang the retaining pins out, but I assume the Ecoboost front calipers are different.

Its a good idea to get a decent torque wrench to torque the caliper bolts. You don't want those coming out, and you don't want to break them either.

Also pick up some anti squeal grease for the backing plates on the pads and sliding pins.

You'll also want to buy or rent the tool to rotate back the rear caliper piston to do the rear pads. Make sure to lubricate that rubber piston boot first though with some WD40 or similar. I've used needle nose pliers to rotate it because I'm lazy and don't want to bother renting the tool, but be very careful with those rubber piston dust boots. They tear really easily. Lube them first before you try to rotate that piston back in.

Materials · Jun 20, 2017

NightmareMoon said:
Friends don't let friends buy real tools from Harbor Freight. Price is good, quality is iffy.

I don't have an ecoboost, so IDK what exact tools you need for the the front pads. For my GT w/ Brembos, besides a socket wrench set, I need a couple of C clamps to spread the calipers, a soft mallet and a punch to bang the retaining pins out, but I assume the Ecoboost front calipers are different.

Its a good idea to get a decent torque wrench to torque the caliper bolts. You don't want those coming out, and you don't want to break them either.

Also pick up some anti squeal grease for the backing plates on the pads and sliding pins.

You'll also want to buy or rent the tool to rotate back the rear caliper piston to do the rear pads. Make sure to lubricate that rubber piston boot first though with some WD40 or similar. I've used needle nose pliers to rotate it because I'm lazy and don't want to bother renting the tool, but be very careful with those rubber piston dust boots. They tear really easily. Lube them first before you try to rotate that piston back in.

Thanks for the suggestion. Do you think an impact wrench is necessary? I used to use a break bar that stripped the lug nuts...

Materials · Jun 20, 2017

So here I am just listing the tools I feel needed to perform brake line flush AND change the brake pad. Hope can get some advice as to if there are any additional tools needed.

3-ton Jack
breaker bar
torque wrench
1/4'' tubing (bleeding the brake)
a catch jar (bleeding the brake)
4 C clamp
Jack Stands
Socket wrench set
Anti squeak compound (from O'Reilly)
Special tool to perform pistons in the rear caliper (rent from O'Reillys)

I have already had Motul fluid and upgraded pads. Just wanna make sure I have all the tools needed before performing the work!!

Thanks guys!

plc268 · Jun 20, 2017

NightmareMoon said:
Friends don't let friends buy real tools from Harbor Freight. Price is good, quality is iffy.

I knew someone was going to say something like this. Do your research, there's some good stuff at HF especially the things I listed.

There's no reason to spend a ton of money if you don't need it professionally.

mikes2017gt · Jun 20, 2017

plc268 said:
I knew someone was going to say something like this. Do your research, there's some good stuff at HF especially the things I listed.

There's no reason to spend a ton of money if you don't need it professionally.

Agreed. Most of HF's hand tools will last you a good long time. I would not spend $100+ on an electric/battery operated power tool there, but I have impact guns and ratchets that have been going strong for 10+ years. I don't use them every day, but I oil them when I use them and they've never failed me.

IIRC most of HF's hand tools are guaranteed for life. Break it and get a new one for free.

Materials · Jun 20, 2017

mikes2017gt said:
Agreed. Most of HF's hand tools will last you a good long time. I would not spend $100+ on an electric/battery operated power tool there, but I have impact guns and ratchets that have been going strong for 10+ years. I don't use them every day, but I oil them when I use them and they've never failed me.

IIRC most of HF's hand tools are guaranteed for life. Break it and get a new one for free.

Actually how useful is it to have an impact wrench? I am planning to have one since I already stripped my lug nuts with my breaker bar.

Suggestions on bleeding brake

Materials

Well-Known Member

scott_0

Well-Known Member

NightmareMoon

Well-Known Member

scott_0

Well-Known Member

DUNDEM

Well-Known Member

Materials

Well-Known Member

NightmareMoon

Well-Known Member

Materials

Well-Known Member

plc268

Well-Known Member

NightmareMoon

Well-Known Member

Materials

Well-Known Member

Materials

Well-Known Member

plc268

Well-Known Member

mikes2017gt

Well-Known Member

Materials

Well-Known Member