My upgrade plan for the base 6 speaker system

GTP makes good points especially about rear speakers although it's not an issue of cone movement due to sub excursion it's more an imaging and staging issue. You want as much of your midbass 40Hz-250Hz to come from your front drivers (another reason I only recommend Hybrid Audio speakers) As for the center you could use it for 3.1 stereo but you need center channel information properly processed you can't just bridge L and R for C. There is processing that must take place to put the proper L C R information in place. None of the current DSPs for auto use have this sadly.
The issue of wiring is something I Usually disagree with people in. You don't need 8ga in your doors but you do want to make sure what is there is in good condition and if you do upgrade it use 12-14 ga. You aren't likely to hear a difference with any wire at 65 mph however lol.

SQ_S550 said:

IMO a really good speaker to replace the rear deck with would be a Peerless SLS 6.5" or an 8" throw 50 wats on them and you will get pretty good low end.

Most people go overboard with sub, as most people hear sub and think they want to shake the house apart. Funny thing is, Listen to a properly tuned home or car stereo, the sub (if utilized in a home) is barely audible. It is there for reinforcement. One of the best cars I have heard in my life was a Mercedes CLS. His speakers consisted of 2 10" drivers in the kick panels and 2 4" drivers in the dash/ a pillar location. I believe he was the IASCA Por world champion at the championships in Louisville last October.

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^ This ^

I tell people to keep turning down their home stereo sub until they can no longer notice it. Then maybe turn it back up just a hair. They usually call me back a week later to tell me how much more realistic is their overall sound.

And yes, Peerless woofers have provided really satisfying bass quality on a budget for years. Great suggestion. Wish I had a pair of their 8" in stock right now.

[MENTION=20554]David.K[/MENTION] have you seen the spread sheet started by the F150 guys? Apart has used it successfully

HextallS550 said:

GTP makes good points especially about rear speakers although it's not an issue of cone movement due to sub excursion it's more an imaging and staging issue. You want as much of your midbass 40Hz-250Hz to come from your front drivers (another reason I only recommend Hybrid Audio speakers) As for the center you could use it for 3.1 stereo but you need center channel information properly processed you can't just bridge L and R for C. There is processing that must take place to put the proper L C R information in place. None of the current DSPs for auto use have this sadly.
The issue of wiring is something I Usually disagree with people in. You don't need 8ga in your doors but you do want to make sure what is there is in good condition and if you do upgrade it use 12-14 ga. You aren't likely to hear a difference with any wire at 65 mph however lol.

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My suggestion was because I assume that Ford also installed a crap center speaker. It would be easy enough to test by connecting/disconnecting it at the amp output, and see what sounds best.

I use 20g lead wires to the tweeter in my custom home speakers, 18g to mids, and 16g to woofers. Maybe 14g on a large woofer. 16g or larger on a tweeter veils the top octave - I could prove it to you in a controlled listening test.

[MENTION=16078]GTP[/MENTION] [MENTION=27502]SQ_S550[/MENTION]

Cross over point is important in that equation as well. Subs should play sub bass. Below 40-50Hz. Boomy bass happens between 60-90Hz in my experience. People should also take note of a cars cabin gain when tuning.

SQ_S550 said:

I love the Maximos, one of the best budget minded speakers available IMO

Why did you put the comps in the rear and the coax in the front?

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1) The wiring from left to right is totally different and didn't want to deal with it.
2) I didn't want to split the tweeters that far from the midrange driver as it would have caused to much separation.
3) The maximo tweeters are much larger than the factory and I did not want to cut up the opening in the factory A-pillar.

Suprisingly the factory tweets off of the factory stereo add just enough to bring the sound stage up. With the comps in the back with the tweets flush mounted it bounces all frequencies off the back glass and really fills the cabin.

HextallS550 said:

[MENTION=20554]David.K[/MENTION] have you seen the spread sheet started by the F150 guys? Apart has used it successfully

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I found that yesterday during some additional research. Thanks.

I've been to a few local install companies and talked to another one about an hour away with a good reputation. Since each goes with different equipment, comparing apples to apples is just about impossible. I'm planning on going with just the 5 channel amp install right now, but I may be talked into speaker installation at the same time if I think it's reasonable. I can install speakers myself without too much hassle if...er...when I blow the factory ones up. Here's what I've gotten for estimates for just the 5 channel amp install so far (all prices include the amp, labor, custom mounting plate for the spare tire well, and wiring kits):

Company A:
Phoenix Gold RX600.5: 60Wx4 @ 4 ohms + 300Wx1 @ 2 ohms - $510

Phoenix Gold SX1200.5: 125Wx4 @ 4 ohms + 400Wx1 @ 2 ohms - $730

Phoenix Gold Ti1600.5: 125Wx4 @ 4 ohms + 800Wx1 @ 2 ohms - $790

Company B:
Hertz EM-HcP5D: 65Wx4 @ 4 ohms + 200Wx1 @ 2 ohms - $743

Company C:
JL RD900.5: 70Wx4 @ 4 ohms + 500Wx1 @ 2 ohms - $950

I'm thinking company A is offering a much better deal (dropped the name of a local Mustang guy who uses them and referred me), and these amps have a much higher bang for the buck, plus pretty good reviews. While I could go the economy route for RX600.5, I'm thinking there is a definite jump in power and quality going to the Ti1600.5

Unless I hear someone here yelling to not do this, I'm probably going that way!

Unless you tell us what speakers, it's hard to give accurate advice.

Keith_PDX said:

Unless you tell us what speakers, it's hard to give accurate advice.

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I'm planning on staying with the stock speakers for now.

Phase 2 would be to replace the stock speakers (now accepting recommendations!). If I get a good price on installed speakers

Phase 3 (if required) would be to add a sub.

GTP said:

My suggestion was because I assume that Ford also installed a crap center speaker.

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The factory center speaker

Ugly John said:

I'm planning on staying with the stock speakers for now.

Phase 2 would be to replace the stock speakers (now accepting recommendations!). If I get a good price on installed speakers

Phase 3 (if required) would be to add a sub.

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My opinion is that even with the Pheonix Gold amp, you'll be seriously over driving the stock speakers. Also, with most aftermarket speakers that are going to be in your budget, that amp has plenty of power. I say save your money on the amp upgrade and immediately put in better speakers, at least up front.

The first step in my base 6 speaker stereo upgrade was installing a 45Wx4 Alpine amp. It definitely made the stock speakers sound better, but I'm now in the process of replacing the four 6.5s with infinity reference two ways with silk tweeters.

wjfasbo, after your speaker install you may want to disconnect the A=pillar tweeters and see how she sounds. I did a coax in my front doors and was pleasantly surprised at how well it imaged without the tweets. I expected the imaging to be lower in the cabin but that was not the case.

Poor phone microphone and all... I was going to finish the outside of the box today, but I ended up building fence for the neighbors.