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Driveline vibe: Has any vendor come up with a solution?

Dominant1

Dominant1

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SYK said:
WELL.. I gotta torque my crossmember more then.. now... LOL
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I re did mine this morning with wheel ramps, took me all of 10 minutes. mine hadn't backed out at all at 46ft lbs!! Again, sorry guys!
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keltymd

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what is the length of the bolts (also what size and thread pitch) needed with a 1/4" spacer? I would order from BMR but I am heading on a road trip friday and would like to fix this before I go
 
Dominant1

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keltymd said:
what is the length of the bolts (also what size and thread pitch) needed with a 1/4" spacer? I would order from BMR but I am heading on a road trip friday and would like to fix this before I go
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The factory bolts are plenty long enough!
 
Dominant1

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keltymd said:
You know the diameter? Want to make sure to get right size washers
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No i don't, but pm kelly at bmr he will be glad to tell you! All i know is the bolt head is 18mm!
 
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keltymd

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so it is a 12MM bolt. Home Depot has 1/2" washers (0.550" hole size) that are .0.88" thick in a pack of 3. Four packs was $3.78 and gives me a drop of 0.264". I have not been able to get mine up to 80 in the area but the vibration I had (real rough feeling very bad from 3800-5000) in 1st and 2nd and my vibration around 50 is gone.
[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] thank you for your work to help find us a solution to the issue.
 

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BMR Tech said:
-S550 driveline angles are not very good. I am seeing pinion flange angles on these cars that shoot above the trans/engine angles.

-S550 pinion rise is significant. The fact that the pinion flange is angled higher than the engine angle...means that the "pinion angle" is even more positive under accel loads.

What I have found to help with the vibrations on cars that seem to have the issue caused by the driveline angles are to adjust the pinion flange angle to where it is 1-2 degrees less than the transmission angle. To do this, you shim the front mounts of the rear subframe down. I have also tested shimming the transmission crossmember down as well.
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Kelly @BMR Tech ,
I'm getting my new Auto GT soon and I'm reading everything about potential issues.
After seeing so many complains about vibrations I would like to know is it a good idea to shim a transmission before I'll feel any vibrations. Prevention let's say.

Have you ever seen S550 with almost perfect angles from factory? Or they are all wrong but it's not always so obvious and doesn't necessarily vibrate?
 
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Dominant1

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No need to shim the trans until you start having vibes! mine didn't vibrate till after 5500 miles so I shimmed my auto crossmember and havent had em since!
 
1024GT

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How much room is under the car on ramps and did you raise the front or back for the easiest access?
 

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Dominant1 said:
No need to shim the trans until you start having vibes! mine didn't vibrate till after 5500 miles so I shimmed my auto crossmember and havent had em since!
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So the angle wasn't right but it took over 5000 miles to feel the vibrations?

In that case, is there any reason to not shim it straight after collection?
 

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1024GT said:
How much room is under the car on ramps and did you raise the front or back for the easiest access?
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You can do it with ramps but its a pain. I have a lift at work so i used it! It was a breeze!
 
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FilipV8 said:
So the angle wasn't right but it took over 5000 miles to feel the vibrations?

In that case, is there any reason to not shim it straight after collection?
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Yes mine never vibrated at all with the stock ds then i did my na build and added a dynotech ds had to flip it 180 degrees , after that no vibration. then later on it started vibrating so I shimmed it and now i have no issue. Just did a 200 mile trip to carlisle for the ford nationals and no issue at all!
 

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Has anyone used the BMR Sriveshaft loop as a shim. I thought about trying to install it between the crossmemberand the frame instead of below it. I haven'tmeasured my angles yet but it seems like it would be a pain to get the car in the air level unless you have a lift.
 

lugz

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kcc0521 said:
it would be a pain to get the car in the air level unless you have a lift.
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Takes less then 3 minutes to get car in air high enough to work on it... use the front jacking point on the pinch weld and both the frt and rear wheel get lifted. Slide in jack stands. Repeat on other side. I don't even bother using ramps anymore. Oh, and it doesn't need to be level to take driveline angle measurements as you're really just looking for the difference between the output shaft angle and the pinion yoke angle.
 
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