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Taming the Dragon's Tail - '15 Ruby Red 50th EB PP

EcoBOSS

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Mods:
NGK LTR7IX-11 6510 Plugs (indexed, closed gap to .024")
Hood struts
AiRaid Intake Tube
Drop-in AEM DryFlow Air Filter
Modded factory intake, removed Helmholtz resonators
Custom paint/hydro-dipped engine cover
SCT X4 - canned tune
275/35ZR19 Nitto Motivo on all 4's
Steeda S550 Mustang Extreme G-Trac K-Member Brace
Steeda S550 Mustang Ultra Lite Low-Profile Chassis Jacking Rails

Role:
Daily Driver, 1320 weekend action

Goals:
Better handling
Better ride
Better throttle response
Increase MPG

Issues:
Bounce (EB PP thing)
Rear suspension bind/release - rare, but scaryAF
Wheel hop (controllable with launch "discipline")

Next:
Steeda S550 Mustang Billet Rear Shock Mount (Rcvd)
Steeda S550 Mustang IRS Subframe Bushing Support System
Steeda S550 Mustang Adjustable Differential Bushing Insert System - Urethane
Steeda S550 Mustang IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
Steeda S550 Mustang GT Braided Stainless Steel Brake Hose Kit (Rcvd)
Steeda S550 Mustang Rear IRS Subframe Support Braces
Steeda Mustang Strut Tower Brace (Rcvd)
[Not a "Fanboy", just like that they all work together with no mods.]
G2 Caliper Paint in "RR" Paint Code

Plans:
"Tail of the Dragon" run in Oct.

Limited budget (move, new job, new house), Special Ordered from Ford, now has 35K on the clock, meticulously maintained.
Looking for the best suspension mods for "Taming the Dragon" and a 3,200 mile (total) road trip.

Please let me know what worked best on YOUR ride, especially if it is an EB PP!
Thanks! :headbang:



Delivery day!



Still wrapped (To keep the detailer from touching the paint!!)



Ruby's first race day! (Texas Motorplex Speedway, Ennis, TX)
- Tech inspection with "Temp" plates! @ about 1,200 miles and after the 2nd oil change!



Pilgrimage to "Mustang Mecca"



First in for the local Mustang 6G Gathering



"That Posterior though..."



Ruby @ COBB Tuning "First Thursday" - Engine cover in red carbon fiber.



More COBB "First Thursday" action - 4/2017
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EcoBOSS

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My plan for tackling the Issues:
1. Bounce.
2. Rear suspension bind/release - rare, but scaryAF
3. Wheel hop (controllable with launch "discipline")

1. Bounce:
Film before:
a. Trim factory rear shock rebound stops.
Film after, if needed go to step b:
b. Ford Mustang GT PP rear shocks: MOTORCRAFT ASH24707 {#ASH24644}.
Film after, if needed step c:
c. Steeda Billet Rear Shock Mount.
Film after.
 

Coyote Red

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Have you found a "hole plug" or measured the "id" of the cut helmholtz resonator on the stock airbox?
 
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EcoBOSS

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Lower Air Box Mod



I used painters tape to mark the cut, but mostly to protect the area around the cut.



Cut was made with a hacksaw and the edge cleaned up with a razor knife.



The inner most circle (on the cut) is 2" I'd.



Hmmm... 75¢?a



Noice. Ready for paint.



Matte black over Rust-Oleum plastic primer is too shiny, flat high temp paint is next...
 
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EcoBOSS

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Steeda S550 Mustang Extreme G-Trac K-Member Brace (15-17 All) - Installed

TL;DR version:
Install: :kickrock:- Instructions are intentionally vague due to changes by year/model. All parts are included in the new kits. Ramps OK, lift/jack stands better.
When: ASAP or AFTER your header/downpipe/trans swap.
Overall: :thumbsup: - Well worth the effort!



Ordered from Steeda, here is the kit unboxed (Very well packaged - no shipping damage)

Tool List:
22mm Socket
21mm Socket
12mm Allen (1/2" drive or 3/8" for torque wrench)
Torque wrench
Breaker bar or ratchet
Blue thread locking compound



This "can" be installed from ramps, much like you "can" shave your head with a cheese grater.
If you are of a "husky" build, you may want to get a lift, or put the front end on jack stands...
But, this works.



As the instructions state, start in the front - if you can't wiggle the ENTIRE brace for those first two holes to line up, you are going to be in trouble if your front holes are threaded.
If they aren't the provided spacers and nuts would actually make it easier since there is more "slop".

My 2015 EcoBoost Premium PP has threaded holes in the front, and the front subframe was braced in the rear, so I did not need the spacers or 2 nuts. Check your mounting points for threaded fittings and spacers - they may not be needed.



There is nothing in the area that gets in the way, ground clearance is not reduced by much at all (<1"), no issues reaching oil filter and you should still be able to drop the downpipe if needed.

The clearance for the transmission pan is tight, but it looks like the pan will drop free.



Thread locked and torqued!

The test drive was great, the difference was felt in the first turn as MUCH better steering response and feel - in "Comfort" mode it was as responsive as Sport mode. Very noticeable.
Overall handling feel was much improved - front end felt "planted". :thumbsup:
 
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EcoBOSS

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Steeda S550 Mustang Ultra Lite Jacking Rails (15-17 Coupe) - Installed

TL;DR version:
Install: :cool: - Instructions are lacking torque specs (47ft/lbs for me). All parts are included in the kit. Although not needed, ramps OK, lift/jack stands better.
When: You decide.
Overall: :( - No mention of NVH, but there is some for sure. Should be well worth the effort once I start doing the downpipe, intercooler and brakes!

Ordered from Steeda, $139 4th of July Sale.

Tool List:
15mm Socket
Ratchet
*Torque wrench
*Blue thread locking compound
(* Your call)

This "can" be installed from the ground with a cellphone in "selfie" mode to view mounting areas.

About as easy as installs get, it took me longer to remove the 6 factory bolts and find the blue thread locking compound than the rest of the install time total.

There is nothing in the area that gets in the way, but there MAY be some seal sealer gunk in the way that needs to be scraped. Ground clearance is not reduced by much at all (<1").

The test drive was OK until I hit some grooved cement roadway, then I turned the stereo down and slowed because I thought I had a flat tire. The NVH was that bad. Now, had I read any of the previous threads on this that said the jacking rails were "not NVH issue items" ( :lie: ), I would have been PISSED! But, I installed these because I plan on doing my own work and these Jacking Rails will be put to good use - so, I'll get used to it.

No pics. Sorry Photobucket is holding them ransom. :mad:
 
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EcoBOSS

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At the moment it is hundreds of pics, waiting to see if Photobucket comes to their senses.
If not, I have a server...
 

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TNcoupe

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Bring it to the Dragon stock. Speeds are so low there its hard to really feel a difference in suspension. Now the Cherohala Skyway is a different story. Oh and be ready to shift a lot on the Dragon. I do but mine is a 3.73 GTPP.
 

Memphis-EcoStang

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Just a suggestion- I got some NVH from my Steeda Jacking rails, solved it by taking them off and using a chisel to remove the excess panel sealant, and then tightening them down again, have not had a problem since related to them.
 
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EcoBOSS

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Time for some 201A Shaker Pro love...
I wasn't ready to toss the center speaker in the trash like some threads suggested. but I really wanted to do SOMETHING about the harsh and overpowering center channel. I pulled mine (pull straight UP on the grille from the rear and towards the hinge at the base of the windshield!) and it is a 2 Ohm, 25 Watt 3.5" component speaker.

I decided a 3 or 4 ohm 90+db sensitivity speaker would decrease the harsh center channel and making it a 2 way will help improve voice definition, add range and "brilliance".

Remove 2 - 7mm screws, unclip the factory connection. I snipped the harness from the factory piece and soldered it to the Infinity Reference 3022cfx speaker. Installing it in the flexible plastic vent shield is hinky, at best. The Infinity has a 6db 1st Order crossover (4.7uf cap) on the positive leg of the tweeter which makes almost no sense whatsoever; as this makes the tweeter START at about 11,250hz!!! Considering my stock set up falls flat on its face at 10,000hz (falling 25db from average!) this is pretty strange.
 

stormhammer

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FWIW, imgur.com is amazing for hosting photos.
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