My audio install thread. Shaker complete overhaul.

I will try and document everything I do as I go through this install.

I have the Shaker 12 speaker system. I will replace everything pretty much besides the factory head unit.

JL Audio (FiX86, TwK88, 1000/1, 800/8)
Rockford Fosgate (2x10" P3 DVC 2 ohm shallow, all wiring)
Morel (3 way components. Haven't decided which ones)

I am going to retain the OEM center channel but change the driver.

Only thing not purchased is the front stage. The two 10s will be in separate boxes on each side of the trunk made with custom fiber-glassed enclosures made by me. The amp rack will be under the back deck. Loss of trunk space will be kept to a minimum.

This will happen over the next two to three months. I will update with pics and descriptions as I go. Everything will be soldered or use factory style connectors.

Reserved

So, not a fan of JL Audio, huh? ;) I look forward to following this build, it should be awesome. Since you have all the processing of the FiX/TwK units, you shouldn't need the passive crossovers that come with traditional speaker sets, so you might want to look at raw Morel drivers from places like https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/morel/

Thanks for the link. I was looking for the 4" that comes in the Virtus 603 kit.

I have always been a MbQuart/Precision Power/JL guy 20 years ago. Never had a JL amp before. I like their nice small form factor though.

I'm excited to see this play out. I'm curious why you are keeping the center channel.

UserName said:

I'm excited to see this play out. I'm curious why you are keeping the center channel.

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@z06psi , @UserName brings up a good point. Before you try to incorporate a center channel into the system, listen to it after you've time-aligned all the speakers... I'm willing to bet that you'll be happy without a center.

Also worth noting... [MENTION=31619]UserName[/MENTION] also has Morel speakers, which means assuming they will fit in his car, they should fit in yours . The tweeter may have to be mounted from behind as it is a 1.1" dome and I believe the factory opening is .75".

mumbles said:

@z06psi , @UserName brings up a good point. Before you try to incorporate a center channel into the system, listen to it after you've time-aligned all the speakers... I'm willing to bet that you'll be happy without a center.

Also worth noting... [MENTION=31619]UserName[/MENTION] also has Morel speakers, which means assuming they will fit in his car, they should fit in yours . The tweeter may have to be mounted from behind as it is a 1.1" dome and I believe the factory opening is .75".

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I wish the install was done already and I had real answers in regards to fitment of the tweeters. I'll try and pop off on of the A-pillar covers and check preliminary fitment. I've been a little nervous up to this point to tear into a brand new car.

UserName said:

I'm excited to see this play out. I'm curious why you are keeping the center channel.

Click to expand...

Like mumbles said. I will time align everything and see how it all plays out through the TwK88. If the center channel hurts it then I will simply cut the cord.

The OEM DSP does the whole center channel thing so I am actually going to retain that specific connection from the OEM DSP/amp. All the other speaker connections will feed the FiX86 and then on down the line.

20 years ago the center channel was the rage but we did not have the processing to do it. Now we do but if it hurts then I will just remove it and move on.

UserName said:

I wish the install was done already and I had real answers in regards to fitment of the tweeters. I'll try and pop off on of the A-pillar covers and check preliminary fitment. I've been a little nervous up to this point to tear into a brand new car.

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Let me know how it goes on the pillars. You could always just wrap the pillars in speaker cloth to hid a mistake.

I ordered a bunch of stuff, peripherals etc., last night. Just gotta order the front stage and then I can be off to do it. I will be doing the amp rack, welding 1/4 square bar, and the fiberglass boxes first.

Subbed for updates! Good luck with the build.

The A Pillar tweeter mounting is pretty easy. Once you pop out the old tweeter, as mentioned, the hole is too small for most aftermarket tweeters. Just use a Dremel with a straight bit on it to round out the hole larger. Go Slowly! And check fitment often so you don't make the hole too large.

I used this method to fit my Hertz tweeters in my pillars. Driver side came out perfect, passenger side is perfect aside from where my hand slipped because I wasnt holding the bit far enough into the hole and I made a small mark on the outside of the pillar. Just go slow with a Dremel and you'll be good

UserName said:

I wish the install was done already and I had real answers in regards to fitment of the tweeters. I'll try and pop off on of the A-pillar covers and check preliminary fitment. I've been a little nervous up to this point to tear into a brand new car.

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The A-pillar comes off fairly easily... pop the top out where it meets the head-liner, the pull the whole thing towards you by grabbing it near the windshield. Putting it back is a bit trickier. There is a long tab at the front where the pillar goes back into the dash... it fits into a slot but if you aren't careful it will fold under and may break off.

z06psi said:

Like mumbles said. I will time align everything and see how it all plays out through the TwK88. If the center channel hurts it then I will simply cut the cord.

The OEM DSP does the whole center channel thing so I am actually going to retain that specific connection from the OEM DSP/amp. All the other speaker connections will feed the FiX86 and then on down the line.

20 years ago the center channel was the rage but we did not have the processing to do it. Now we do but if it hurts then I will just remove it and move on.

Click to expand...

I believe the Twk88 will compile a center channel for you too. You have 8 channels to work with, six for the front stage, one for the subs, leaving one to experiment with the center channel. I would recommend bypassing the factory DSP all together because you can get the optimal tuning with the JL as opposed to being stuck with no adjustments whatsoever with the factory unit. It may be important to keep in mind that the factory DSP is tuned with the specific driver in mind and it may not play well with a replacement. I may be slightly off base, so please don't take my ramblings as gold standard.

z06psi said:

Let me know how it goes on the pillars. You could always just wrap the pillars in speaker cloth to hid a mistake.

I ordered a bunch of stuff, peripherals etc., last night. Just gotta order the front stage and then I can be off to do it. I will be doing the amp rack, welding 1/4 square bar, and the fiberglass boxes first.

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I am still working out the design of my trunk. Hoping to shove all the amps into the spare tire well and just have a 1 cubic foot box for the sub tucked under the rear parcel shelf. Thanks for the tip on the speaker fabric wrap.

Your first point.

Yes. This is a little bit of an experiment but yes the TwK is supposed to do that as well. We will see. I will run center channel wires into the kick panel so they are already there if needed.

Second point.

My air ride is in my spare tire hole.


I am no means an authority nor a professional. Input is welcome but don't take offense if I try other things.

I am about to use the JL FIX and TWK combo as well. I am already running a Zapco amp pushing a RF T1S2 12". I decided to go with a 3 way from CDT for the front. I am wondering if I should use the passive crossovers or go full active. Hopefully you beat me to it so I can follow in your footsteps.

West TX GT said:

I am about to use the JL FIX and TWK combo as well. I am already running a Zapco amp pushing a RF T1S2 12". I decided to go with a 3 way from CDT for the front. I am wondering if I should use the passive crossovers or go full active. Hopefully you beat me to it so I can follow in your footsteps.

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Full Active! With all the processing available from the JL equipment, you won't need the passive crossovers... plus, if you use them, you won't be able to fully time align your front stage.