Check out my baby beading water like a duck. CQUARTZ ftw!

plc268 said:

You need to do some research on water spots.

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I guess you don't get much rain down there in Texas .

It has been raining here in the rest of the US pretty much lately and when I walk out to me mustang over night walah water spots ...................... I hate water spots ....................so I wash me mustang and shiner up real nice every chance that I get ................................The End .....:cheers:

Brian V said:

I guess you don't get much rain down there in Texas .

It has been raining here in the rest of the US pretty much lately and when I walk out to me mustang over night walah water spots ...................... I hate water spots ....................so I wash me mustang and shiner up real nice every chance that I get ................................The End .....:cheers:

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I know you think you're smart but water spots caused by rain dissolving dirt on your car and then leaving "spots" behind isn't what I'm referring to.

I've certainly seen my fair share of dirty rain, but that's mostly due to pollen accumulation or a dust storm rolling through.



The water spots I'm referring to and what's almost every one refers to is calcium and lime mineral deposits from hard water when it's left to sit on the car and dry in the sun.

Although, I suppose if you have acidic rain, that could certainly leave spots.

Have you used coatings?

You don't have to spend $1000. I did it myself for less than $80 which included reload.

Ive been detailing my cars for the better part of 30 years. I can tell you that the coating on my car is more durable, and far easier to maintain than anything I've used before.

Blk2015GT said:

Per application yup. Bottle is $30 for 16oz. Only need reapply every 6 months.

Haven't even used half of bottle up in 3 years of ownership now. You should not be using that much at all if applied correctly and thin, maybe half an ounce.


Unrelated to this thread, IMO coatings are a overpriced fad right now for the "set it and forget it generation" Notice how they get you into this regimen of buying their products to then "keep up the coating" too. It's a big money pit of potentially snake oil that no one can prove anything either way

1 or 2 microns (a human hair is 100 microns) of coating is not doing, or not proven by any reputable science to do, much more than wax and sealant for the paint. Perhaps MINOR minor towel mark resistance being harder than a wax or sealant, but nothing close to what manufacturers want to claim.

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SVT-DADDY said:

Have you used coatings?

You don't have to spend $1000. I did it myself for less than $80 which included reload.

Ive been detailing my cars for the better part of 30 years. I can tell you that the coating on my car is more durable, and far easier to maintain than anything I've used before.

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Yes and have been detailing cars, polishing etc. I've heard all the claims, yet seen no one PROVE by actual scientific tests that the 1-2 microns do anything more than a sealant/wax. All of these multi-million dollar product companies and none can show a scientific test of their claims and coatings vs sealant/wax? Sounds awfully suspicious to me. Until then I will personally remain unconvinced it is better (not unuseful for some, just not better for the $)

Regardless, you have a few microns of SOMETHING between the environment and clear coat. It's like saying is wrapping leftovers in plastic wrap or foil better; about the same it protects the food and keeps out what you want to keep out regardless of the material difference. Just 2 different ways to the same end goal. Sealant/wax and coatings will do they same things like minor avoidance of water spot damage, protect from environmental crap on the car, beading water, etc. The rest is marketing puffery at best. At best the coating is a bit harder when dry and prevents some very light toweling marks; at best as I've seen coatings scratch from microfiber towel drying too.

Hence why I said unrelated to this thread, not the DIYer but paying some clown $1000, $1500, $1800 for it. There are far far more people paying $1000+ than $80 and DIY

SVT-DADDY said:

Have you used coatings?

You don't have to spend $1000. I did it myself for less than $80 which included reload.

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Quoting $80 is disingenuous though when you consider the cost of every product used and the hours of work to get to the point of when the coating is applied.

The coatings are like a good wax and sealant but should last longer. So fat in my experience i havent had good luck with it though.

My zaino regimine would take a full day but it lasted 2 months plus. It objectively looked better but the beading was much more prolific. Even condensation would bead up and when you drove it all would roll off the back with little effort. So far the cquartz for me wont do this and needs much higher speeds to fall off.

Labradog said:

Quoting $80 is disingenuous though when you consider the cost of every product used and the hours of work to get to the point of when the coating is applied.

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Paint correction is paint correction no matter what you're using for a top coat.

SVT-DADDY said:

Paint correction is paint correction no matter what you're using for a top coat.

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And it's most of the cost when paying someone else to apply a coating. That was my point.

Labradog said:

And it's most of the cost when paying someone else to apply a coating. That was my point.

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What I am trying to figure out where I was disingenuous by saying the coating cost me $80?

People aren't applying sealants or waxes over swirls are they?

The bottom line is sealants, waxes, and coatings all preform a similar function, each with pro's and con's. None are going to look good over paint that needs correction.

99% of people, if they use any lsp at all, are doing exactly that. So, what someone is seeing when they look at your car cost you a lot more than $80.

If you're correcting the paint every time you apply sealant or wax (wax about every month or 2, sealant about 6) you will have no paint (clear) left after a few years!

It is not realistic to keep a daily driver flawless 100% of the time; wax, sealant, or coatings (despite the force field the manufacturers claim they will scratch from dirt and get toweling/drying marks eventually too).

So of course sealant and wax are going over minor imperfections every now and then. C'est la vie! You live with them (or spot correct what you can) and polish once a year.

Id rather strip was and sealant off with IPA and a microfiber and correct when needed, then the risk sanding off/heavy cut compounding coating when it gets minor imperfections in it; which it will with time on a daily driver. And then a whole other ball of wax buying more expensive coating.

Sure it's more maintenance time along the way, but a LOT less risk in the long run.

Blk2015GT said:

If you're correcting the paint every time you apply sealant or wax (wax about every month or 2, sealant about 6) you will have no paint (clear) left after a few years!
It is not realistic to keep a daily driver flawless 100% of the time; wax, sealant, or coatings (despite the force field the manufacturers claim they will scratch from dirt and get toweling/drying marks eventually too).

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That's why Cquartz coatings are better. Do it once, (paint correct/apply coating), for 2-3 years and call it a day.

Stage_3 said:

That's why Cquartz coatings are better. Do it once, (paint correct/apply coating), for 2-3 years and call it a day.

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Depends on your view. If you scratch the coating, which it will eventually on a daily driver no matter what anyone says, it is a LOT more work and money to correct.

Blk2015GT said:

If you're correcting the paint every time you apply sealant or wax (wax about every month or 2, sealant about 6) you will have no paint (clear) left after a few years!

It is not realistic to keep a daily driver flawless 100% of the time; wax, sealant, or coatings (despite the force field the manufacturers claim they will scratch from dirt and get toweling/drying marks eventually too).

So of course sealant and wax are going over minor imperfections every now and then. C'est la vie! You live with them (or spot correct what you can) and polish once a year.

Id rather strip was and sealant off with IPA and a microfiber and correct when needed, then the risk sanding off/heavy cut compounding coating when it gets minor imperfections in it; which it will with time on a daily driver. And then a whole other ball of wax buying more expensive coating.

Sure it's more maintenance time along the way, but a LOT less risk in the long run.

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Blk2015GT said:

Depends on your view. If you scratch the coating, which it will eventually on a daily driver no matter what anyone says, it is a LOT more work and money to correct.

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Your argument is flawed.

On one hand you say the coating isn't doing much more than a sealant or wax.

Then on the other hand you say it's going to take heavy buffing and compounds to get it off.

If that's the case it has to be more durable then, right?

All I can say is 6 months after my coating I have no swirls, or fine scratches. Rock chips...yes. My car is driven daily and kept outside. My other 2 vehicles are in need of a coat of wax after the same length of time.

Now I am not saying you can coat a car and take it to the car wash everyday, doesn't work like that. I only hand wash my car using the 3 bucket method, and a ton of fresh micro fiber towels.

i paint cars for a living. and i havnt touched my car with one oz of wax, sealant or anything and its still looks like it came off the show room floor, i did one reload so far .
now my old challenger, i had to cut and buff it i use the 3m 3 step , then used a sealant , then did syn wax on top of that.. after about 6 months it looked like i didnt do anything. and ive been painting and cutting and buffing cars for 15 yrs.and my car only gets hand washed with a huge micro sponge and 3 bucket

so yeah the stuff works in my eyes, and if you can wax a car you can apply your own opticoat or whatever one you use. its pretty damn simple to put on

and if you do scratch the coating, its not a hard fix. sand it out buff it and recoat that panel, same as you would do if you used wax or sealant or whatever