Oil consumption got worse. Not sure what to do. Should I sell the car?

435 miles now of which last 250 has been the old style of drivig. Oil level did not move even a mm, showing full

Prayers answered.
OEM catch cans for all.

Congrats! Now enjoy her.

UnhandledException said:

435 miles now of which last 250 has been the old style of drivig. Oil level did not move even a mm, showing full

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Obviously no PCV valve in the system is the culprit. Try running the OEM valve in the valve cover with the UPR catch-can. The can itself isn't the problem.

GT Pony said:

Obviously no PCV valve in the system is the culprit. Try running the OEM valve in the valve cover with the UPR catch-can. The can itself isn't the problem.

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^^is my setup and works fine. Still catches oil and consumption is 0.

I am not running any catch cans anymore. I am also going to complain to the UPR people. I could have ruined the motor because of them.

610 miles after last oil change now and the oil level went down about half a mm. Basically its down less than 1/10th of the distance between MIN and MAX marks. With this rate, I would need to add 1 qt in well excess of 3-4k miles (maybe even more).

Last 350 miles or so I drove pretty spirited. Did a lot of 1-2-3-4 redline pulls, lots of engine braking at high rpm, to the point I think I never did this much before.

UnhandledException said:

I am not running any catch cans anymore.

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I'd run one ... helps keeps oil out of the intake manifold. You're just gun shy now. ;)

Yeah, UPR needs to know this ... taking the PCV valve out of the system isn't a good thing.

GT Pony said:

I'd run one ... helps keeps oil out of the intake manifold. You're just gun shy now. ;)

Yeah, UPR needs to know this ... taking the PCV valve out of the system isn't a good thing.

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What's the chances the catch can has enough restriction to change the effective spring rate of the PCV ?

It appears that OP was hoping to keep an ounce of oil out of the intake manifold and ended up sending quarts through the engine.

This is a $369 part, plus another $100 or so for the check valve and PCV delete. That money is probably better spent accelerating oil changes.

mustang1 said:

What's the chances the catch can has enough restriction to change the effective spring rate of the PCV ?

It appears that OP was hoping to keep an ounce of oil out of the intake manifold and ended up sending quarts through the engine.

This is a $369 part, plus another $100 or so for the check valve and PCV delete. That money is probably better spent accelerating oil changes.

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I agree, couldnt have said it better myself.

I also want to thank every single one of you in this thread for helping me out. If it werent for some of you guys I would have either done something stupid or worse misdiagnose this. Cannot tell you how happy I am that I dont need a new engine. I actually feel happier now than I did when I first got the car. I literally was losing sleep over this.

I hope I didnt do permanent damage in those 1800 miles and 8 quarts of oil (around 220 miles per quart!). It never went too low though because I was checking all the time. I had to add 1.5-2 at the most I think in one shot.

I will keep monitoring the usage and report back here once I cross 1000 and 2000 mile marks.

I also havent received the oil report, I expect to get it early this week. I will scan and post that as well.

I would just sell the car like I did and take your losses. What a POS

I checked the oil level when cold (previous post was after 30 min of parking) this morning and level is now half point between two holes. It seems like the oil contracts when cold and level shows lower than when its warm. Before it was about 75% or 80% level between MIN/MAX.

Which one of these levels do you consider when adding oil? Because I may end up under the bottom hole much quicker if I check the level cold. My gut says do what manual says simply because Ford probably thought about overfilling problem. Imagine tracking this car and if you fill to MAX while cold when you are in track, you will go above MAX easily. Porsche for example recommends leaving the oil below MAX on purposeas part of track prep for the same reason.

Now if I see a 1/4th level of difference between cold and warm after regular driving, you could easily see twice of that when oil temps reach 240-250F, maybe even more than 1/4th.

UnhandledException said:

I checked the oil level when cold (previous post was after 30 min of parking) this morning and level is now half point between two holes. It seems like the oil contracts when cold and level shows lower than when its warm. Before it was about 75% or 80% level between MIN/MAX.

Which one of these levels do you consider when adding oil? Because I may end up under the bottom hole much quicker if I check the level cold. My gut says do what manual says simply because Ford probably thought about overfilling problem. Imagine tracking this car and if you fill to MAX while cold when you are in track, you will go above MAX easily. Porsche for example recommends leaving the oil below MAX on purposeas part of track prep for the same reason.

Now if I see a 1/4th level of difference between cold and warm after regular driving, you could easily see twice of that when oil temps reach 240-250F, maybe even more than 1/4th.

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Just changed my oil on Saturday and added 10 qts drove car home and let it sit overnight. The oil level on dipstick with the hash marks is at the upper hole perfectly full. The other side is about 1/4 lower, point being on a cold engine one side of the dipstick should be on the full mark.

Offboost said:

Just changed my oil on Saturday and added 10 qts drove car home and let it sit overnight. The oil level on dipstick with the hash marks is at the upper hole perfectly full. The other side is about 1/4 lower, point being on a cold engine one side of the dipstick should be on the full mark.

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What do you mean by "other side"?

UnhandledException said:

What do you mean by "other side"?

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One side of the dipstick has hash marks and the "other side" doesn't. The dipstick goes into the oil at an angle so whichever side is down reads "higher" than the upper side, although not by much.

"Full" on the dipstick is the top of the hashmarks. The hole is there for some purpose that Ford doesn't share with us, although it's probably the correct level for a brand-new engine that's due to be mated to an empty oil cooler.

JAJ said:

One side of the dipstick has hash marks and the "other side" doesn't. The dipstick goes into the oil at an angle so whichever side is down reads "higher" than the upper side, although not by much.

"Full" on the dipstick is the top of the hashmarks. The hole is there for some purpose that Ford doesn't share with us, although it's probably the correct level for a brand-new engine that's due to be mated to an empty oil cooler.

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I always assumed the top of the hole is the full mark because when I m at the bottom hole and add 1 qt, it always goes to the top hole, way past the hashmarks.

Also when I changed my oil 650 miles ago, I measured the oil carefully and had gotten out 9.8 qt exact when the dipstick read right at hashmark. When I added 10 qt, the oil level was at top hole. These readings were all taken after oil reached 200F, and car was kept 15-20min after being shut down.

So then I guess we may assume the FULL means hashmark when cold and top hole when warm. I m pretty sure the reading difference between cold and warm engine is very substantial in this car especially due to the 50 weight oil being used.

The conclusion then is we should follow Ford's recommendation on measuring the oil because their understanding of MIN and MAX levels are probably assuming warm oil not cold. If we see below hole while engine is cold and add a qt and track the car next day, car will probably read way above top hole when oil is hot.