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Installed the BMR Polyurethane diff lockouts...lulz

RockStang

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I say lulz because holy hell the gear whine is SO loud you can hear it with the radio volume cranked up to 15. It can't be this bad in all cars. This is ludicrous. From 40-80 when on the throttle it sounds like a ghost is wailing in the back seat. This is not a knock on BMR. Just my experience with this mod. There is also some squeaking coming from the bushings. God I hope these things break in a little or they'll be coming off. Days of work to install these was definitely not worth it.

Give this mod a lot of thought before you do it.
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After shearing a diff bolt with a different company's black poly inserts, I installed the solid aluminum bushings. It whines pretty good, especially in 6th gear. But, I like knowing my set-up is bullet proof.

As a noob, it was very time consuming to change out the diff bushings so I decided to go with aluminum diff bushings since BMR said they never had a failure(sheared diff bolt)with them. I did the install last October and I haven't sheared any more diff bolts since.
 

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I have Steeda solid aluminum bushing inserts and a through-bolted differential... some whine but certainly not audible with the volume at 15 and easily ignored. I assume the OP is talking about dropping the IRS and replacing the factory bushings with the poly bushings. At that point, I'd just go with aluminum bushing replacements. I started with Steeda's red and then black inserts with the basic bolts. Never a sheer, despite being the worlds worst launcher, numerous road courses, and numerous street launches. People get indoctrinated into thinking this diff bolt sheer thing is relatively common. Just like people get indoctrinated into thinking if they take their car to any Ford dealer, it will be hooned on by a group of techs who apparently have no work to do because they saw a few YouTube videos of otherwise rare instances.

It's funny... people mention "another company" in regards to sheered diff bolts, but fail to note that BMR also sells basically the same thing (poly diff inserts). Steeda and BMR bolt sell upgraded bolts (grade 12.9) should you feel the need for speed.

And 100% of the instances that I am aware of, it is evident that the diff bolt was not torqued properly, the diff inserts were not installed in the correct location, or the issue occurred during violent wheel hop or an aggressive launch on sticky tires, which the OEM differential mount design itself cannot possibly be appropriately designed for on account of the bolts being in sheer on the threads instead of the shank. It is better the bolt brake than the ear of the differential, believe me. And frankly that's probably one justification for Ford going with that design vs. something stronger.

Just properly through-bolt the differential and use any insert you desire.
 

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I have broken bolts in the diff. It does happen more than you think. Doesn't matter if the bolts break or the diff it still takes out the driveshaft. These are violent 1/4 mile launches so if that's what your after the bolts are a must especially on stick cars and slicks.
 

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so you install parts that WILL increase NVH and then commence to do your own bit of whining...

that's the ultimate lulz
 

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I say lulz because holy hell the gear whine is SO loud you can hear it with the radio volume cranked up to 15. It can't be this bad in all cars. This is ludicrous. From 40-80 when on the throttle it sounds like a ghost is wailing in the back seat. This is not a knock on BMR. Just my experience with this mod. There is also some squeaking coming from the bushings. God I hope these things break in a little or they'll be coming off. Days of work to install these was definitely not worth it.

Give this mod a lot of thought before you do it.
I am sorry to hear that your NVH level is excessive @RockStang

Please keep in mind, all cars and people are different.

If someone has a poly diff insert / lockout kit and the NVH level is so bad that they want to remove them, then there is likely an issue with the rear ring and pinion set-up or the user is super picky, or both.

I would like to share my experience.

Video 1 - is my daily driver. I drive approximately 100 miles daily, with a full BMR IRS mod list. The BK051 Diff Lockout kit included. I filmed this earlier today on the way to run the car through the car wash. Car is mostly all stock with an MGW XSpec, Pypes Mufflers and BMR Suspension. This is also a 3.73 PP Torsen car, which are usually the worst when it comes to diff noise.

[ame]

The majority of the NVH (gear whine) is at select speed ranges on decel. This is with the AC on low...no radio, windows up.

Video 2 - this is what excessive NVH from diff mods sounds like. This is my car that I drag race. All solid everything. This video was taken on my 1hr30min+ drive home from the track a while back :eyebulge:

[ame]

That car had super mega rowdy exhaust at the time...and you could still hear it WAY over the open longtubes.


If your NVH level exceeds that of Video 1, I'd say that you could likely do some things to rectify it. Different gear lube would be a good start, or check the set up of the ring and pinion.

If your NVH level is anywhere close to Video 2, you need to drop the diff and inspect. That level without all solid parts and SERIOUS abuse is usually after there is an issue somewhere in the system. Bad fluids, damaged diff, etc.
 

BMR Tech

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I have Steeda solid aluminum bushing inserts and a through-bolted differential... some whine but certainly not audible with the volume at 15 and easily ignored. I assume the OP is talking about dropping the IRS and replacing the factory bushings with the poly bushings. At that point, I'd just go with aluminum bushing replacements. I started with Steeda's red and then black inserts with the basic bolts. Never a sheer, despite being the worlds worst launcher, numerous road courses, and numerous street launches. People get indoctrinated into thinking this diff bolt sheer thing is relatively common. Just like people get indoctrinated into thinking if they take their car to any Ford dealer, it will be hooned on by a group of techs who apparently have no work to do because they saw a few YouTube videos of otherwise rare instances.

It's funny... people mention "another company" in regards to sheered diff bolts, but fail to note that BMR also sells basically the same thing (poly diff inserts). Steeda and BMR bolt sell upgraded bolts (grade 12.9) should you feel the need for speed.

And 100% of the instances that I am aware of, it is evident that the diff bolt was not torqued properly, the diff inserts were not installed in the correct location, or the issue occurred during violent wheel hop or an aggressive launch on sticky tires, which the OEM differential mount design itself cannot possibly be appropriately designed for on account of the bolts being in sheer on the threads instead of the shank. It is better the bolt brake than the ear of the differential, believe me. And frankly that's probably one justification for Ford going with that design vs. something stronger.

Just properly through-bolt the differential and use any insert you desire.
It actually happens quite often. (sheared diff mount bolts)

I do agree, a through bolted set-up is superior. Due to that being superior, is the reason I started a thread about the issues and resolutions.

We did not release poly lockouts until we had come up with a better/stronger rear bolt solution. Since day 1, our poly diff lockouts have come with 12.9 through bolts for the rears.

As for the comment about the bolt breaking being better, and to believe you. Can you explain? I have been there, done that. Both have happened to me.

Diff ears snapped:
I still finished the full 1/4 pass. Went 9.4@147. Replaced diff housing and went about my day. It scraped up the DS and the e-brake cable bolt pretty bad, though.

Bolts sheared: Bolts sheared, ears will snap....diff is not mounted and DS breaks, DS loop gets mangled, half shafts snap.....and the car is 100% inoperable. When this happened to me, I promise the proper TQ was achieved. It also happened to Donnie Gilder, when he was on a dyno...not even a race track.

I know you are likely referring to me with the indoctrination comment - and quite frankly I could careless. I share my issues to the public, even before we make solutions so that the people can benefit from my costly damages.

The number of people I have assisted with sheared diff bolts is likely well over 25 up to this point. That may be a small % of people using product, but I take pride in knowing that many of them come to me for a resolution. :headbang:
 

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For track day/road course Customers I recommend Delrin subframe bushings and leave the rubber in the diff if it's a Daily driver. The subframe mounts all the suspension. The diff moving around is only loosing some power down do to movement.

For Drag racing you need to put on the big boy pants and decide what the true purpose of the car is.

We have several Customers running a solid/solid set-up with TrackDay/Road Race cars, noise is less of an issue when you know the car will be consistently pointing in the correct direction as you power down towards the barrier on corner exit.

After listening to [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION]s second video, We will be adding solid mounts to everything for our Road Course usage...sweet sounds of #RaceCar
 
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RockStang

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so you install parts that WILL increase NVH and then commence to do your own bit of whining...

that's the ultimate lulz
And then you come in my thread and Whine about me whining and be a hypocrite at the same time. Crawl back under your rock.
 
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RockStang

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I am sorry to hear that your NVH level is excessive [MENTION=15798]RockStang[/MENTION]

Please keep in mind, all cars and people are different.

As I said, this was not about knocking a product. Just referencing my experience. I also said other cars can't be this loud recognizing that some of it is likely my car. I'm sure it's bad luck for me. I also want to get an alignment done. I know the rear cradle is not where it was before I started. Not sure how much that will help anything.
 

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I am sorry to hear that your NVH level is excessive [MENTION=15798]RockStang[/MENTION]

Please keep in mind, all cars and people are different.

As I said, this was not about knocking a product. Just referencing my experience. I also said other cars can't be this loud recognizing that some of it is likely my car. I'm sure it's bad luck for me. I also want to get an alignment done. I know the rear cradle is not where it was before I started. Not sure how much that will help anything.
Did you change Cradle Bushings? When was the last time you changed the diff fluid?
 
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RockStang

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I am sorry to hear that your NVH level is excessive

Video 2 - this is what excessive NVH from diff mods sounds like. This is my car that I drag race. All solid everything. This video was taken on my 1hr30min+ drive home from the track a while back :eyebulge:



That car had super mega rowdy exhaust at the time...and you could still hear it WAY over the open longtubes.


If your NVH level exceeds that of Video 1, I'd say that you could likely do some things to rectify it. Different gear lube would be a good start, or check the set up of the ring and pinion.

If your NVH level is anywhere close to Video 2, you need to drop the diff and inspect. That level without all solid parts and SERIOUS abuse is usually after there is an issue somewhere in the system. Bad fluids, damaged diff, etc.
Mine is definitely similar to video 2 after the install. No issues before though so no idea what it could be. What differential oil do you recommend?
 
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RockStang

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In a perfect world the aluminum lockouts would be snap in and out for the track........
 

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Mine is definitely similar to video 2 after the install. No issues before though so no idea what it could be. What differential oil do you recommend?
If it sounds like #2 then I recommend removing them. I pulled over to get ear plugs shortly after that video.

Before that track visit (on the drive to that event), it was much quieter. Much much much x 3 more muches.

I have never experienced a poly insert or lockout kit being much louder than Video #1. I'm not sure what to tell you at this point unfortunately.

As for fluids. I use Tim @ Optimum above. Have him set you up with a fluid kit. I recommend it regardless, just my personal opinion.
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