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Rear End Suspension Creak

BrantMcE

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My rear end passenger side suspension has developed a creak when moving forward from a stop.





I've dealt with a similar issue to a greater degree on the driver side rear at one point however i was able to fix it.



When it was my driver side the issue was taht this bolt circled appeared to be loose and tightening it solved the problem
1931driver.jpg


My assumption is that the passenger side is having a similar issue since the noise is similar, however i was unable to tighten the bolt.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brant
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wildcatgoal

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Jeez you're just having all kinds of fun. Why can't you tighten the opposing side bolt that solved the issue before? Is it already to the proper torque? Have you tried to loosen it, then retorque it? That particular bolt secures a bearing so you can do so with the car up in the air and not have to worry about "clocking bushings".

Also check the wheel bearing nut torque. My driver rear was WAY OFF when I decided to check it. I can't remember what the torque procedure is for that particular part. But anyway people retorquing that have had success getting rid of creaking noises.

Also, if you have an aftermarket exhaust, I've found that to be the source of weird noises that only happen at the oddest times. Gets too close to something under there and doesn't make a peep on big bumps but just tooting along slowly or just starting... can hear it. May not be your situation but... just idea.
 

wildcatgoal

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Also, consider jacking the car up and jack-standing it on just that side so both wheels are in the air and there is a jack stand up front and in the back along the pinch welds.

Then use your jack to carefully and intelligently jack up the lower control arm (the gray part the spring sits in) and listen closely for any similar noises. I've found a bad shock that way. Well, specifically the lower mounting point of the shock had stripped threads and therefor moved ever so slightly making a subtle noise (that probably would have gotten worse).
 
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BrantMcE

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Thanks for the suggestions guys! So the passenger side bolt that I thought was initially the issue, could not be tightened. So I looked around and thought I'd check it's sister bolt. Turns out it was fairly loose and could be tightened quite a bit. I won't know for sure if it fixed it as my car is still up on on jackstands but as soon as it's down I'm gonna check it out. Fingers crossed lol
IMG_20171016_152747528_HDR_20171016154308896.jpg

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BrantMcE

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Whelp that did the trick guys! now my car is much more enjoyable to drive. The binding noise i was hearing was unbearable and am happy to say it no longer exists!
 

EFI

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Great news, I have the same type of noise so I'm going to check mine also.

Just to reiterate, you tightened both of those bolts on both sides? Or a single bolt on driver and 2 bolts on passenger?
 
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BrantMcE

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Great news, I have the same type of noise so I'm going to check mine also.

Just to reiterate, you tightened both of those bolts on both sides? Or a single bolt on driver and 2 bolts on passenger?
Just depends which side the noise is coming from, a year ago it was my driver side and tightening the one bolt circled in the lmr picture fixed it. This time when the nose was coming from the passenger side, I first attempted to tighten the same bolt as the first time (but the one in the passenger side) and it was already fully tightened. That's when I decided to try tighten the other bolt, which as turns out was loose. It fixed the problem though. You'll need either a 24mm socket (what I used) or an SAE socket in a similar size. A short extension might help as well when reaching the bolt I tightened on the passenger side as well as either a breaker bar or longer torque wrench so it's easier to apply torque to the turn the bolt.
 

ccelaya

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Just depends which side the noise is coming from, a year ago it was my driver side and tightening the one bolt circled in the lmr picture fixed it. This time when the nose was coming from the passenger side, I first attempted to tighten the same bolt as the first time (but the one in the passenger side) and it was already fully tightened. That's when I decided to try tighten the other bolt, which as turns out was loose. It fixed the problem though. You'll need either a 24mm socket (what I used) or an SAE socket in a similar size. A short extension might help as well when reaching the bolt I tightened on the passenger side as well as either a breaker bar or longer torque wrench so it's easier to apply torque to the turn the bolt.
I am experiencing the same issue as you guys, it's a 2 year old car that sounds like my dad's 82 chevy celebrity...

I will give it a try, thanks! :thumbsup:
 

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DS550

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I had a creak from the rear passenger side. I have added a bunch Steeda goodies myself and had tracked the car a couple of times so I decided to swing the the Pompano and have them check it out (make sure it didn’t do something wrong). Turns out everything was good; they re-torqued the Steeda Sway Bar End Links and reminded me to re-torque and check everything after the track.
 

moffetts

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Bumping this because I had the same problem as Brant and the process for accessing the forward 24mm bolt for the sole purpose of checking the torque is not terribly well documented and I believe it is frequently omitted when checking the torque of the rear suspension parts. When people say “I’ve checked all of the bolts and they are all tight but I still am getting a clunk”, I doubt it.

I recommend doing this one side at a time to make reassembly easier, as you will need to drop the subframe. Removing the muffler and twisting the mid pipe section out of the way helps with access to the rear 24 mm bolt, but it’s not required if you have the right tools. Anyway, jack the car up and support the weight on the pinch welds or the frame rail. Remove the rear wheel and unbolt the camber arm where it meets the spindle. Remove the shock and unbolt the sway bar link where it meets the spindle. Support the underside of the RLCA with a jack, then unbolt the front and rear subframe bolts. Slowly lower the jack and pull the spring out. This will give you just enough room to get a long breaker bar or ratchet (or torque wrench) with a shallow 24mm socket in there. I strongly recommend something that ratchets because you don’t have much room to work with. Once you confirm it’s tight, reassemble in reverse order, taking extra care with lining up the upper shock bolts. If you drop both sides at the same time, you will need to futz around with the subframe bolt alignment. Take your time and don’t cross thread anything!
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Massih408

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I have the same creak and it's driving me nuts, did the process above fix the issue?
 

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I have the same creak and it's driving me nuts, did the process above fix the issue?
Do you have aftermarket Camber Arms or any other parts with a heim joint? I had the same type of noise with my BMR Camber Arms and the Heim joints were locked up only after a few hundred miles. Had them replaced and a dust cover put over them and it is all good now.
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