Options for low end power?

Past 4k-4.5k the GT definitely can move! However, under that I feel it not much different from your standard beater sedan. Could just be my perception but it's how it appears to me.

If I wanted to add low end power during those <4k rpm's accelerations what would be the most effective and efficient way to do it?

Separate question...What about minor changes that could be made that did NOT include a turbo, pro/super charger, etc.?

Thanks

-Emt1581

It's a 4 valve...that's heavy and small for a 'v8' application.

Other than fully bolted and or cams not much is gonna improve low end power by much.

Either a bigger engine...compression/headwork cams and full bolt...or nitrous or forced induction

Sp33dyGT said:

It's a 4 valve...that's heavy and small for a 'v8' application.

Other than fully bolted and or cams not much is gonna improve low end power by much.

Either a bigger engine...compression/headwork cams and full bolt...or nitrous or forced induction

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Well, I do plan to go forced once all warranties have expired. Still need to research what is absolutely optimal for this car. However, it'll definitely happen in the future!

Nitrous....I thought only riced out teens used that. Haven't researched the systems much in 10 years but they were seriously cheap when I looked...like well under $1k turning your own wrench.

That might be a fun option for now but again, wouldn't it cancel out the warranty if something happened? ...which would defeat the purpose of it for me.

Plus, what other parts would I need to change/swap out on the GT to make it work/healthy?

Thanks

-Emt1581

Wrong car if that's what you're looking for lol.

If your worried about warranty go with the roush stage 1 and have a dealership put it on for you. It's a pd blower so it's going to do more of what your looking for.

keep it > 4k when you want to move. Otherwise you will need FI, or a lighter car, such as a Corvette with a better power / weight ratio. Neither of those options is cheap.

if you going "wot" you will never see 4k, so i am assuming you are talking about part throttle driving?

screw / pd type blowers typically kick in more at part throttle than a centri does, centris build with rpm and wot typically

so, if i'm reading right, you want to be able to go half throttle from light to light quicker, that would be a whipple / tvs type blower

beefcake said:

if you going "wot" you will never see 4k, so i am assuming you are talking about part throttle driving?

screw / pd type blowers typically kick in more at part throttle than a centri does, centris build with rpm and wot typically

so, if i'm reading right, you want to be able to go half throttle from light to light quicker, that would be a whipple / tvs type blower

Click to expand...

Well, the car can supposedly do 0-60 in 4.3 but that's flooring it from a stop and being much better/faster at shifting than I am. And I have a LOT to learn to get to that level. Right now I'm getting passed by 20 yr old minivans and buicks because I trying to take it easy on the car. Once or twice a week I'll open the throttle up but not much.

But yes, I'm wondering what'll yield the most power in the lower rpm's or get to the higher rpm's faster. That's why I asked about the specifics and popularity of nitrous in my last reply. Just wasn't something I'd considered in my car.

As I said, in the future, definitely will be adding power. That's why I went with the 5.0. Most potential for more power.

Thanks!

-Emt1581

Just supercharge it - problem solved

Charlie Brown said:

Just supercharge it - problem solved

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Is a supercharger going to be the most power?

It's pricey but the Hellion Twin scrolls seems like it'll do 800-1100hp all day. Getting back to the price though it'd easily be $20k just for the parts to get the car safely handling that kinda power. Not out of the question/budget for the future. Just not anywhere close to what I've seen other options cost.

I guess when looking at Forced Induction it's always going to be a compromise of performance vs. cost. I suppose if you threw enough money at it you could make a Yugo spank a McLaren.

-Emt1581

You don't have to shift fast. Just be willing to wind the motor up to 6500 between shifts and nobody will be passing you.

edit: be sure to keep oil in the engine, and make sure the engine oil is hot before doing that.

I went thru the same thing you are going thru. Not much low end power. The Roush Phase 1 super charger makes the car a blast to drive and
You get the power all the way thru the RPM range. Full warranty available if it’s installed by your dealership.

I don’t race or take my care to the track, just want a dependable fun everyday driver.
If you get above the 670 HP mark, no warranties are available.

I also added a VMP racing heat exchanger and the car maintains its HP on hot days.

If you're staying NA: gears, tune, tire. Suspension if wheel hop.

How about just down shifting :shrug:

If you are good no wot under 3k you are doing it wrong even NA...

If you are in 5th and below 4K and expect it to all the sudden jump when you got wot you have the wrong expectations set.

You have 6 gears, use them and quite driving like a grandma talking about you only go WOT 1 or 2 times a week...pick up a Buick if your gonna drive like that. Power on or GTFO!!!!

If you have a manual, try starting in 2nd. I find the gearing in 2nd gets the car moving much better in part-throttle as 1st is really short.

Give it a try.