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Thinking of switching whipple to turbo, please discuss

beefcake

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any blower / turbo kit will make power on a coyote.

900 rwhp is enough power to run low 9's, for sure. it's def tougher in a manual transmission.

if your maximizing et, even on a stick car, i don't think a turbo would be "easier" to launch, other than turning the power down,

if you really want to get the "most" out of the car with big numbers, i would lean towards an auto swap. if you really want et at the track, you will see bigger gains out of that, vs anything else that you do at the track

for the guy asking about the sleeved block,

if you want to make 1000rwhp and live a long time, a sleeve block imo is a must

these engines can really take some power, we were running low 9s for quite some time before we lost our engine and never lost a piston / rod. we pushed through the cylinder wall in the water jacket area, that is the weak link on these things, if your taking the time to pull an s550 apart, get a sleeved block

an 11-14 car the pistons rods help as they are weaker, but for 1000 on any of them, you want a sleeved block
 

Travis@boostworks

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Travis - based on what you're saying what is your take on a safe HP limit for stock engines?
750 blower, 800 turbo. For a daily driver, I wouldn't do much more. Just my .02.
 

Bartly

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It's not just internet opinion for us. We take apart and build 20-30 Coyotes per year.
Hey Travis, wondering if you've taken any engines apart that lost of Torco+pump gas run through them. Curious what the orange build up looks like and if it gets noticeably thicker with lots of miles. Wondering what a DD coyote with Torco would look like after like 50k miles.
 

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I am about to take apart my stock block engine (forged rods, pistons, billet gears) that i put 7500 miles on. I had about 150 track passes, and atleast 100+ high speed street pulls on it with a TVS making over 20psi and likely in the 950whp range.

Towards the end when pushing 22~ish psi...when it would get hot, it would spit some coolant. But still ran it's ass off!

I am expecting to find some hairline cracks in the block - seems that is "somewhat" common on the 900+whp stock block cars.
 

pro 5.0

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Hey Travis, wondering if you've taken any engines apart that lost of Torco+pump gas run through them. Curious what the orange build up looks like and if it gets noticeably thicker with lots of miles. Wondering what a DD coyote with Torco would look like after like 50k miles.
I would imagine that it wouldn't look any different than carbon build up on a regular engine, if you are running Torco you are going WOT frequently so build up shouldn't be an issue.:thumbsup:
 

pro 5.0

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I am about to take apart my stock block engine (forged rods, pistons, billet gears) that i put 7500 miles on. I had about 150 track passes, and atleast 100+ high speed street pulls on it with a TVS making over 20psi and likely in the 950whp range.

Towards the end when pushing 22~ish psi...when it would get hot, it would spit some coolant. But still ran it's ass off!

I am expecting to find some hairline cracks in the block - seems that is "somewhat" common on the 900+whp stock block cars.
If that was an aluminum rod race motor that bitch would have been apart 3 times already to replace the rods.:)
 

superman07

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I can show you guys pics of distorted bores from 2 engines apart in my shop right now. One D1SC car at 750whp on 93 and Torco. Other was a twin turbo car from a brand I won't say (since they'll get all butt hurt) at 850whp on E85. Both had a little blow by, but still ran. Almost every bore was egg shaped / out of round by a good .0025", which is enough to lose ring seal. Also, they showed signs of blowing combustion past the head gasket(s) at the top of almost every cylinder.
Once they get like this how long until the block or something else is effectively shot?

Do you know how many miles they ran at those levels?
 

pro 5.0

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OP what did you decide to do ?
 

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doodguy

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OP what did you decide to do ?
Haven't had any serious bites on my whipple kit. I don't want to lose my butt for another 50-75hp. Sitting tight with whipple for now but with the right offer would sell it and then buy this kit.

I'm also eager to see what whipple releases. So kinda in limbo right now :(
 

jhatley7

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Have you put any more thought into head work? Since your motor is apart anyway?
 
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doodguy

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Have you put any more thought into head work? Since your motor is apart anyway?
I have. But since it's a few grand for less than 50rwhp don't think it's best value right now :(
 

kcc0521

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You converted to auto? how is it on highway if you mash the gas? How much did the swap cost? Any online instructions of the swap?

I have considered swapping auto, but do enjoy the manual on the highway/around town.
I converted my car to an auto and it is a beast on the highway if you stomp it. It pulls hard and I am only making around 650 to the wheels. I went a 10.4 at 136 on pump with octanium and stock stall. I should be close to a 9 when I add the stall. I did the swap myself and it wasn't too bad. the cost was about 4K using mostly new parts other than the transmission.
 
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doodguy

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Have you put any more thought into head work? Since your motor is apart anyway?
I converted my car to an auto and it is a beast on the highway if you stomp it. It pulls hard and I am only making around 650 to the wheels. I went a 10.4 at 136 on pump with octanium and stock stall. I should be close to a 9 when I add the stall. I did the swap myself and it wasn't too bad. the cost was about 4K using mostly new parts other than the transmission.

Have any links to install instructions? I'm curious what all is involved.
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