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[Help] - choosing suspension upgrades for base 2015 GT.

BmacIL

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Do you mean the nuts and bolts the tower/k-brace that come with it aren't that good? Shouldn't they come with it?

edit: been googling around. is it cause i'm non-pp? "Anyone have the part number of the nuts needed to mount the upper strut tower brace on the driver side? Non PP cars don't come with those two nuts." - would seem like an oversight on fords part! if so, how many of each part that you mentioned.
Nothing to do with the strut tower. These are the lower bolts and nuts that attach the strut to wheel knuckle. They often get damaged during removal so it is a good idea to get new ones.
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How many of each?
 

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GTP

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OP, my car is also non-PP. I went from stock suspension to full GT350 springs and bars on Steeda ProAction adjustables. I just went back to stock, because it is a great DD suspension (but I left on the GT350 roll bars).

My advice is NOT to put on stiffer springs! Or, at least not stiffer than the performance pack springs, which you can buy used cheap every day. Maybe upgrade to Steeda rear non-adj shocks with their billet mounts.

The car really does corner okay as stock. Here is my advice, which is a little different. (BTW, Bmac and I are BFF's, but we differ a little in what is tolerable on the street.)

  1. Tires and wheels. Wider, sticker rubber will make the biggest difference in feel to you.
  2. CB005 lockout
  3. GT350 roll bars
  4. Fine-tune your alignment

Try this before adding braces, spherical bearings, etc.
 

BmacIL

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OP, my car is also non-PP. I went from stock suspension to full GT350 springs and bars on Steeda ProAction adjustables. I just went back to stock, because it is a great DD suspension (but I left on the GT350 roll bars).

My advice is NOT to put on stiffer springs! Or, at least not stiffer than the performance pack springs, which you can buy used cheap every day. Maybe upgrade to Steeda rear non-adj shocks with their billet mounts.

The car really does corner okay as stock. Here is my advice, which is a little different. (BTW, Bmac and I are BFF's, but we differ a little in what is tolerable on the street.)

  1. Tires and wheels. Wider, sticker rubber will make the biggest difference in feel to you.
  2. CB005 lockout
  3. GT350 roll bars
  4. Fine-tune your alignment

Try this before adding braces, spherical bearings, etc.
I'm a 90/10 kinda guy. 90% of the time I love the handling, poise and body control, even in daily use. 10% it's firmer than I'd like and a little rough on bad roads. Worth the occasional sacrifice to me, but not for everyone.

Mine is a lot stiffer than the PP or even SP089\082 springs though. Those springs with a matched damper set are still very comfortable.
 

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I'm a 90/10 kinda guy. 90% of the time I love the handling, poise and body control, even in daily use. 10% it's firmer than I'd like and a little rough on bad roads. Worth the occasional sacrifice to me, but not for everyone.

Mine is a lot stiffer than the PP or even SP089\082 springs though. Those springs with a matched damper set are still very comfortable.
^ This.

Honestly, the OP could just test drive a PP car on moderately rough roads to see what he thinks. Not a lot stiffer than base though. A good thing IMO.
 

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I agree with not getting the stiffer springs thing. When I got into it I didn't really know what this car needs. Really I think this car, even the base is fine. I would do CB005 and maybe that's it. It really doesn't need springs and shock IMO for the street. I did though and a LOT more too. The handling is way better yes. But for 95% of driving it won't make a difference unless you're really tearing up the street.

The sloppy IRS is really the culprit rather than the springs and dampers. My setup is way stiffer than stock and is halfway to "race car" territory I think. A lot of times it really bugs me but when I get to push it hard I really enjoy it.

If I had to do it again I would do it differently but I don't regret my decisions ultimately.
 

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I agree with not getting the stiffer springs thing. When I got into it I didn't really know what this car needs. Really I think this car, even the base is fine. I would do CB005 and maybe that's it. It really doesn't need springs and shock IMO for the street. I did though and a LOT more too. The handling is way better yes. But for 95% of driving it won't make a difference unless you're really tearing up the street.

The sloppy IRS is really the culprit rather than the springs and dampers. My setup is way stiffer than stock and is halfway to "race car" territory I think. A lot of times it really bugs me but when I get to push it hard I really enjoy it.

If I had to do it again I would do it differently but I don't regret my decisions ultimately.
Ditto. Hence my post #34.
 

BMR Tech

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Many times people question my recommendations, or the spring designs we offer, etc.

90% of the time, when I deal with a customer with an S550 Mustang I recommend them get our "Performance" line of springs, the CB005 Cradle Bushing Lockout and then we go from there. My train of thought for daily driven cars is, BMR Springs, CB005, Better wheels/tires and then sway bars with nice end links.

Most of the time people will go overboard, but the few pieces I mention above REALLY make a big difference on a street car. Once competition/racing gets thrown into the mix, we step up drastically; though.
 
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Omg, do you mean what you typed was for the pp dampers? i had a brain fart.

FR3Z-18125-W - PP rear shock
FR3Z-18124-AB - PP front strut

You'll also want to get new strut to knuckle bolts and nuts:
-W715932-S439 / Strut Lower Bolt
-W520517-S450 / Strut Nut

I thought u were saying get those parts for the tower/brace.
 

BmacIL

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Omg, do you mean what you typed was for the pp dampers? i had a brain fart.

FR3Z-18125-W - PP rear shock
FR3Z-18124-AB - PP front strut

You'll also want to get new strut to knuckle bolts and nuts:
-W715932-S439 / Strut Lower Bolt
-W520517-S450 / Strut Nut

I thought u were saying get those parts for the tower/brace.
Yes those fasteners are for the struts.
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